Sealing safe's door and pre-drilled holes issue - Page 2

Sealing safe's door and pre-drilled holes issue

This is a discussion on Sealing safe's door and pre-drilled holes issue within the Related Gear & Equipment forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Hi guys,thank you all for your replies . Glad to be a member of this forum, thanks for the warm welcome as well. Well, I ...

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Thread: Sealing safe's door and pre-drilled holes issue

  1. #16
    New Member Array Tectac's Avatar
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    Hi guys,thank you all for your replies .
    Glad to be a member of this forum, thanks for the warm welcome as well.
    Well, I didn't clarify that my concern isn't to make my safe/lockbox fireproof.I know it's difficult/impossible to do that if it's not made for this purpose.However, you all provided some useful tips on that issue, which will be taken into consideration.
    I want to make it airtight because my dehumidifer functions best at this condition.


    Oldvet mentioned about taping the holes.I guess any tape would work,right? What if I put the bolts it came with in the pre-drilled holes and tape them?

    @Kenny53 Are the video instructions, the same for generally sealing a safe's door regardless of fireproofing?I'm just worried in case the door doesn't open.Is it possible to remove the sealant afterwards? I haven't used a caulk/sealant not even once,so I don't know how it works.How about weathering strips?


    @CreedDryrot does the door rattles/is loose on yours too?If so, have you tried to seal it?

  2. #17
    VIP Member Array Fizban's Avatar
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    A box made out of steel which is subjected to 1200-1500 degree temps during a fire is simply a OVEN in my humble opinion. I have a rattily door on my safe and although I live in the very humid South, I have never had any sort of rust problem.
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tectac View Post
    Hi guys,thank you all for your replies .
    Glad to be a member of this forum, thanks for the warm welcome as well.
    Well, I didn't clarify that my concern isn't to make my safe/lockbox fireproof.I know it's difficult/impossible to do that if it's not made for this purpose.However, you all provided some useful tips on that issue, which will be taken into consideration.
    I want to make it airtight because my dehumidifer functions best at this condition.


    Oldvet mentioned about taping the holes.I guess any tape would work,right? What if I put the bolts it came with in the pre-drilled holes and tape them?

    @Kenny53 Are the video instructions, the same for generally sealing a safe's door regardless of fireproofing?I'm just worried in case the door doesn't open.Is it possible to remove the sealant afterwards? I haven't used a caulk/sealant not even once,so I don't know how it works.How about weathering strips?


    @CreedDryrot does the door rattles/is loose on yours too?If so, have you tried to seal it?
    Sealing your safe works both ways. You might be sealing humidity INSIDE the safe, rather than keeping it out.

    If you want the contents of your safe to remain dry, you only need to raise the temperature inside the safe a few degrees above the temperature of the surrounding room. It's really that simple. For a 1.2 cubic foot safe, put a 7-watt nightlight (lit, of course) inside the safe and you won't have to worry about humidity.
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  5. #19
    VIP Member Array OldVet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gasmitty View Post
    Sealing your safe works both ways. You might be sealing humidity INSIDE the safe, rather than keeping it out.

    If you want the contents of your safe to remain dry, you only need to raise the temperature inside the safe a few degrees above the temperature of the surrounding room. It's really that simple. For a 1.2 cubic foot safe, put a 7-watt nightlight (lit, of course) inside the safe and you won't have to worry about humidity.
    Says the man in Arizona...
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  6. #20
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    We use Dry-N-Dry silicone granules in old nylon socks in our real safe. They need to be baked to be refreshed every so often, but they do keep the humidity down inside the safe.
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  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldVet View Post
    Says the man in Arizona...
    Who spent his first 53 years in the humid Northeast.
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    Smitty
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  8. #22
    Senior Member Array CreedDryrot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tectac View Post



    @CreedDryrot does the door rattles/is loose on yours too?If so, have you tried to seal it?
    Slightly. This isn't a precision made safe. I wouldn't say it rattles or is loose, because it doesn't rattle on its own and isn't "loose". There is a little give in the latch, yes, an eighth of an inch or less I'd say. I have no desire to seal it. I see no need to seal it for my use. Like I said in my original post, I'd suggest you spend extra and get what you need instead of buying this and trying to adapt it. This really isn't meant to be a humidifier.

  9. #23
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    Tectac

    I haven't sealed the doors on my safes. Never thought of doing it. But if I was to try it I would smear Vaseline on one of the surfaces and just window caulking on the opposing surface and close the door. This will insure that the caulking sticks only to one side. You may want to try this one section at first to make sure it works for you. I am mentioning bolts in the pre drilled hole because I assume you are going to bolt your safe down. For taping to holes I have never worried about it. But if you insist I would go for Gorilla Tape.

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