Sealing safe's door and pre-drilled holes issue

Sealing safe's door and pre-drilled holes issue

This is a discussion on Sealing safe's door and pre-drilled holes issue within the Related Gear & Equipment forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Hello guys, new member here,I got to say that's a really great and informative site. I have a question if you don't mind answering. To ...

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Thread: Sealing safe's door and pre-drilled holes issue

  1. #1
    New Member Array Tectac's Avatar
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    Sealing safe's door and pre-drilled holes issue

    Hello guys, new member here,I got to say that's a really great and informative site.

    I have a question if you don't mind answering.


    To begin with, I've recently bought amazonbasics security safe - 1.2-cubic feet
    https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-.../dp/B01BGY6GPG

    which is made of solid pry-resistant steel and has the following dimensions:
    16.93 by 14.57 by 10.63 inches (L x W x H).

    It has pre-drilled holes for bolting and the door rattles/is kind of loose.
    Therefore, I would like to ask you,how can I seal the door and the pre-drilled holes in order to make it airtight?

    Should I caulk it with silicone/polyurethane?Use rubber seal? I want something that can be removedeither because I may make some changes in the future(e.g add lighting/power) or in case
    the door doesn't open after the sealing.

    I've seen this video but it's only related to door sealing and fire-proofing.

    Thank you in advance.
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  2. #2
    VIP Member Array OldVet's Avatar
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    Unless you line the interior with sheetrock, you won't make it fire resistant, much less fire proof. Even the expensive safes are more fire resistant than fire proof, that "Good for 1200 degrees for "X" minutes" thing. The bare metal sides will transfer heat right through. Even lining it with plywood is better as wood does not transfer heat well. Or line it with old Christmas cards...

    The fire resistant door seals aren't necessarily air tight. They expand when exposed to heat and then seal. Tape over the holes will make them "air tight" enough for humidity purposes. Now if you expect your safe to have a boating accident, all bets are off.
    Retired USAF E-8. Curmudgeon on the loose.
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    Go to Lowes or HD and ask for Firestop caulk that is used to fill holes between floors in new home construction.
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    Senior Member Array CaptSmith's Avatar
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    FireStop caulking is for sealing penetrations (like plumbing/wire) through a fire-wall...seals hard under fire conditions...it has to be fire-proof to be fire proof...most gun safe's will give you something to show insurance...WELCOME TO THE BLOG great first post
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    Distinguished Member Array ColoradoDiablo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldVet View Post
    Or line it with old Christmas cards...
    If only I was on the list!
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    VIP Member Array Havok's Avatar
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    any real fire resistance is going to cost a lot of money. For this safe I would say you will have to accept that the best you would get is some sort of sealant that you can use to keep smoke out, knowing that if itís involved in any real fire the whole safe is going to be toast.
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  8. #7
    Senior Member Array CreedDryrot's Avatar
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    I have that exact safe in my closet. I love it. It's great for keeping things out of sight and away from people who enjoy convenient thefts. Beyond that, it doesn't do much and it's really not meant to. It's not fireproof by any stretch of the imagination and I don't think you could really make it that way without essentially rebuilding it.

    I'd suggest spending the extra $$ to get the safe that meets your needs completely. Like I said, I love this safe. But it's not Fort Knox and will never stop a highly motivated thief or a house fire.

  9. #8
    VIP Member Array dangerranger's Avatar
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    Some safes get their fire rating by insulating out the heat. they are not necessarily sealed. Others get their rating by having a gasket that swells at a certain temp. this cutts off the oxygen [ and thus fire retardant.] But if the gasket is always sealed it would make the door hard to open.

    To the OP if you wanted to make your lockbox more fire resistant you could put it into a file cabinet drawer and surround it with paper. the cabinet both limits the air needed to burn and the contents also insulate the box.
    In a fire the contents of a file cabinet are rarely burned. they may get wet from fire suppression, and possibly singed at the edges. But they are usually OK. Good Luck. DR
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    Member Array OneSilverT's Avatar
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    Second the Sheetrock (or gypsum wall board as we call it) and fire caulk.
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    VIP Member Array Gabill's Avatar
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    I second to spend the money and get what you want. It may take a while longer for you to buy one, but it will be worth it.
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  12. #11
    VIP Member Array OldVet's Avatar
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    There are safes, and then there are lockboxes.
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  13. #12
    Member Array OneSilverT's Avatar
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    As for the gypsum wall board, it would be easier to buy the safe with it all ready built like you needed. Most building and homes have fire rated wall assemblies that are built to comply with a UL listing. The safe you want it to be able to hold up and protect the contents until the fire is extinguished. Depending on where you live, that could take a while.
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    What do you think you're gaining by making your safe airtight?
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    Welcome to the forum, Tectac, from Arizona. Glad to have you aboard. While you might be able to make the little safe somewhat firesafe, it would likely be less expensive and more effective to purchase one for that purpose.
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    So who is this Will that everybody fires at, what did he do, and how come he's not dead yet??

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    For the predrilled holes I would put lag bolts in them when I bolt the safe to the wall. If you want to seal the door I would do what the young lady in the video said. If you need to ad lights later I just turn on the light I have on my night stand gun. or a small flash light. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
    Last edited by Kenny53; July 7th, 2019 at 12:23 PM. Reason: I forgot to proof read

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