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347 Posts
Sellior & Bellot Ammo in 9mm
My local range sells the S&B ammo in 9mm and it is a bargain
compared to most other ammo (for the FMJ round point) used
for target practice. It's even sealed at primer/bullet and good for wet weather use...that's why the Seals like it I guess?
Used to be $6 a box before O was elected.
Now it's probably $10-15. I've fired about 300 rnds thru my
Ruger P95DC with no problems. Seems to love the stuff. It shoots
about the same (based on recoil) of Winchester (Walmart Red, White
& Blue box), but is much more accurate than most and all security guards I know locally have used it, even to qualify with & love it.
Also, I've fired about 100rnds of it thru my 1911A1 that's customized with 0 problems. It burns clean, unlike Winchester & Remington (the yellow box UMC is total junk in any caliber I've seen it shot thru) or PMC that leaves a mess to clean out of the gun.
9mm handguns seem to prefer the lighter bullet weights I have noticed though. Have saw several short barrel/compact guns that will jam if you try to use 147grain bullets and would not recommend them.
Hirtenburger ammo that came into the US for a while had the
regular red box and a brown box...the brown box was German Subgun ammo that avg. 1657fps in 9mm. It will crack the frame of a S&W 5906 after about 500rnds. Know this because it wrecked a friend's gun. I have shot some of it sparingly and keep a clip for self defense. It is a 90grn copper jacket with lead tip bullet & goes thru a 4X4-probably will plow thru about 3 people if bad guys get too deep.
Anytime you use +P or the +P+ ammo, you are shortening the life of the gun. Especially true of the S&W guns such as their Air-weight revolvers. Always inspect any firearm for frame/rail cracks when cleaning. My bud & myself almost got blew up once when he bought a new Springfield 1911 model in 9mm and the old shopkeepers gave us two boxes of ammo that turned out to be subgun ammo. It was worse than firing a .50 cal Desert Eagle and we luckily stopped and asked expert advice (the expert told us we were lucky and called-really had a talk with the salesmen about almost killing us!)
If it's too hot...it's probably not supposed to be shot out of it.
Except in cases like the 8mm Mauser shoulder wrecker.
Sometimes though you don't get a warning.
When reloading you have to be xtra careful.
Federal primers fyi are about 2000PSI hotter than CCI or Winchester Primers. That's why they usually don't fail, but you have to use a press to load them and a Lee Hand Reloader will make them explode, setting off the whole primer tray. Lee now has a warning against using F primers in their equipment. Friend found out the hard way-luckily he was wearing eye protection. Got pock-marked scars on his face and blew them around the corner into the next room!
Metal's breaking point is around 40,000psi. It's always best to start with the "lightest" reload possible. Usually I have found that the most accurate is "under" the factory load specs on most ammo.
Have also noticed in ballistic jello tests that the lighter weight load in
HP seems to cause the biggest entrance wound & most extended damage into the target...cause it's moving a little faster I guess.
Anyone know what's best, please let us know as I'm no expert an
open to criticism to find what works!!!
The worst scenario I have seen (among idiots that put too much powder in the case or not enough causing a squib load-stuck bullet in barrel) is the .40 caliber. If you study the reloading specs, there is almost 0 room for error on that load and it only takes few grains over to destroy the gun as the case pressure is "already" very near the maximum point where metal can break. Have knew of two Glock 40's being destroyed from just a little over. I never recommend a .40 to anyone. If a 9mm won't get the job done, stick with the .45. The 10mm is hotter than dangit too, but usually just breaks the springs and eventually wears the rails so bad they have to be peaned back to specs or cracks them. It's purpose was to have more rounds & same power as the .45 but why mess with perfection. It didn't work, so somebody decided to invent the .40???If you can't hit the bad guy with 8 rounds, just throw the thing at them and run like hell cause you didn't practice enough!
Measure twice, inspect it good and happy reloading.
My local range sells the S&B ammo in 9mm and it is a bargain
compared to most other ammo (for the FMJ round point) used
for target practice. It's even sealed at primer/bullet and good for wet weather use...that's why the Seals like it I guess?
Used to be $6 a box before O was elected.
Now it's probably $10-15. I've fired about 300 rnds thru my
Ruger P95DC with no problems. Seems to love the stuff. It shoots
about the same (based on recoil) of Winchester (Walmart Red, White
& Blue box), but is much more accurate than most and all security guards I know locally have used it, even to qualify with & love it.
Also, I've fired about 100rnds of it thru my 1911A1 that's customized with 0 problems. It burns clean, unlike Winchester & Remington (the yellow box UMC is total junk in any caliber I've seen it shot thru) or PMC that leaves a mess to clean out of the gun.
9mm handguns seem to prefer the lighter bullet weights I have noticed though. Have saw several short barrel/compact guns that will jam if you try to use 147grain bullets and would not recommend them.
Hirtenburger ammo that came into the US for a while had the
regular red box and a brown box...the brown box was German Subgun ammo that avg. 1657fps in 9mm. It will crack the frame of a S&W 5906 after about 500rnds. Know this because it wrecked a friend's gun. I have shot some of it sparingly and keep a clip for self defense. It is a 90grn copper jacket with lead tip bullet & goes thru a 4X4-probably will plow thru about 3 people if bad guys get too deep.
Anytime you use +P or the +P+ ammo, you are shortening the life of the gun. Especially true of the S&W guns such as their Air-weight revolvers. Always inspect any firearm for frame/rail cracks when cleaning. My bud & myself almost got blew up once when he bought a new Springfield 1911 model in 9mm and the old shopkeepers gave us two boxes of ammo that turned out to be subgun ammo. It was worse than firing a .50 cal Desert Eagle and we luckily stopped and asked expert advice (the expert told us we were lucky and called-really had a talk with the salesmen about almost killing us!)
If it's too hot...it's probably not supposed to be shot out of it.
Except in cases like the 8mm Mauser shoulder wrecker.
Sometimes though you don't get a warning.
When reloading you have to be xtra careful.
Federal primers fyi are about 2000PSI hotter than CCI or Winchester Primers. That's why they usually don't fail, but you have to use a press to load them and a Lee Hand Reloader will make them explode, setting off the whole primer tray. Lee now has a warning against using F primers in their equipment. Friend found out the hard way-luckily he was wearing eye protection. Got pock-marked scars on his face and blew them around the corner into the next room!
Metal's breaking point is around 40,000psi. It's always best to start with the "lightest" reload possible. Usually I have found that the most accurate is "under" the factory load specs on most ammo.
Have also noticed in ballistic jello tests that the lighter weight load in
HP seems to cause the biggest entrance wound & most extended damage into the target...cause it's moving a little faster I guess.
Anyone know what's best, please let us know as I'm no expert an
open to criticism to find what works!!!
The worst scenario I have seen (among idiots that put too much powder in the case or not enough causing a squib load-stuck bullet in barrel) is the .40 caliber. If you study the reloading specs, there is almost 0 room for error on that load and it only takes few grains over to destroy the gun as the case pressure is "already" very near the maximum point where metal can break. Have knew of two Glock 40's being destroyed from just a little over. I never recommend a .40 to anyone. If a 9mm won't get the job done, stick with the .45. The 10mm is hotter than dangit too, but usually just breaks the springs and eventually wears the rails so bad they have to be peaned back to specs or cracks them. It's purpose was to have more rounds & same power as the .45 but why mess with perfection. It didn't work, so somebody decided to invent the .40???If you can't hit the bad guy with 8 rounds, just throw the thing at them and run like hell cause you didn't practice enough!
Measure twice, inspect it good and happy reloading.
