[Rob13]

I'm trying to remove my WASR-10's slant muzzle brake so that I can put a new PWS FSC47 brake on, but I cannot get it off. I know that the threads are opposite, but it will not budge.

 

[JD]

Odds are that it's welded on.

 

[SteveinNEPA]

This may sound very stupid. But did you push the detent (button) down and turn it at the same time? (this is only if its not welded) Also, try a little break free or PB blaster, friend had one that wasnt welded and it was stuck like it was. PB took it off nice and easy.
~Steve

 

[Rock and Glock]

Post high quality detailed (macro) photos of the brake from several angles if possible.

 

[Rob13]

This may sound very stupid. But did you push the detent (button) down and turn it at the same time? (this is only if its not welded) Also, try a little break free or PB blaster, friend had one that wasnt welded and it was stuck like it was. PB took it off nice and easy.
~Steve

yes, i did have the plunger pushed down. What do you mean by PB blaster?

 

[Ram Rod]

yes, i did have the plunger pushed down. What do you mean by PB blaster?

It's a penetrant/rust remover that every man needs in his toolox. Sold at most decent hardware stores. As was suggested......pics...must have pics!

 

[SteveinNEPA]

PB blaster is an orange colored, very powerful rust breaker/corrosion destroyer. It is called PB Blaster,comes in an areosol can and is sold in places like NAPA, autozone etc. Only reason I suggested it was because on my friends AK the brake had frozen in place due to rust/corrosion in the threads. PB will seep into the SMALLEST of crevices and free almost anything. Used to use it on lug nuts and brake chamber bolts and such on tractor trailers, works GREAT. (Just dont get it on anything like leather,suede,styrofoam it will literally MELT styrofoam) If absolutely NOT welded, spray it down, wait a little while - 1/2 hour or so and try to move it by hand. If not try a pair of pliers and WRAP THE JAWS in something that will protect the finish but not slip and slowly try to turn it off. ALSO as said before - PICS FROM VARIOUS ANGLES, HIGH QUALITY TOO PLEASE
~Steve

 

[Rob13]

I'm uploading some photos from photobucket, but it is not responding.
Standby

 

[Rob13]

 

[Ram Rod]

So..what is it that you don't like about the original slant brake? Just asking. Looks like some epoxy of some sort behind it. I'm thinking a little application of heat may help, like one of those small plumber's torches for sweating copper. What sort of tools have you tried in your attempts to remove it? If you are using clamp type pliers, it may be crushing it down even worse. If you don't care about saving the original brake, then I might suggest using a small pipe wrench and good vise, EZ outs or pipe removers (use a size large enough not to go into the muzzle!). I also might cut it with my Dremel tool and still save the threads. I am an aspiring gunsmith, and I'd treat every firearm like my own. I've never screwed up anything. I would try the heat first. The brake should be softer than the barrel steel. We need Rock and Glock back since he's more of an AK expert. We'll get things going one way or another, just don't get impatient and do something you'll need to fix.

 

[Rob13]

So..what is it that you don't like about the original slant brake? Just asking. Looks like some epoxy of some sort behind it. I'm thinking a little application of heat may help, like one of those small plumber's torches for sweating copper. What sort of tools have you tried in your attempts to remove it? If you are using clamp type pliers, it may be crushing it down even worse. If you don't care about saving the original brake, then I might suggest using a small pipe wrench and good vise, EZ outs or pipe removers (use a size large enough not to go into the muzzle!). I also might cut it with my Dremel tool and still save the threads. I am an aspiring gunsmith, and I'd treat every firearm like my own. I've never screwed up anything. I would try the heat first. The brake should be softer than the barrel steel. We need Rock and Glock back since he's more of an AK expert. We'll get things going one way or another, just don't get impatient and do something you'll need to fix.

I wanted to upgrade to the PWS FSC47 brake. I really don't care how beat up the old brake gets because i don't plan on saving it. I did put some WD40 on it an let it soak in for a while then try it, but it didn't work.

 

[Ram Rod]

I wanted to upgrade to the PWS FSC47 brake, it has less muzzle climb and reduces recoil. I'm not trying to save the old one so i really don't care how beat up it gets.

Roger that. I'm not real familiar with the brake you're wanting to add. Only reason I am in the loop on the AK's is because of small experience, ownership, and a certain respect and love of the platform. I don't keep myself as up to speed as I should in some areas.
There's another really good AK expert on this forum, and I'm thinking it's Rob72 or something. He really knows his stuff, so like I say....just be patient.

 

[Rob13]

I don't have a torch available at the moment, but do you think that a lighter or candle would work if i just let it sit on there for a while?

 

[Ram Rod]

I don't have a torch available at the moment, but do you think that a lighter or candle would work if i just let it sit on there for a while?

No. Let's just give it a while, and more help will arrive. You need more input before you do anything. I'm serious. Your firearm is an investment.

 

[Rob13]

Do you know anything about that PB blaster stuff?

 

[Rock and Glock]

I don't know that epoxy would have been used since it already has a pin. It might have been welded to make it ban compliant, but I can see no evidence of a weld. I don't know that epoxy would make it ban compliant. My bet is it is just very frozen, but I could be wrong.

When you apply heat gently to the brake (the female end of the fitting) it will expand, as well as soften any adhesive. Depress the pin, and turn the brake clockwise carefully to loosen it. The threads on the AK and the brake are the opposite of normal. It you are willing to damage the brake, clamp a pair of vise-grips to it (the brake), and then gently tap the vice-grips with a small hammer while applying heat. That might break any seal too. WD-40 is an OK penetrator, but PB Blaster, Torch, Liquid Wrench or BreakFree is much better. Spray the brake and fitting and let it sit overnight before applying heat or pressure.

Whatever you do, do it gently and do it easy to avoid screwing up your AK.

Start with a candle, and we might graduate to a torch, but I would really hesitate to do that yet - too big a chance of me screwing up the barrel temper or the front sight.

We need Rock and Glock back since he's more of an AK expert

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

I have some other resources to try if these don't work - just keep us posted. Good luck. :smoke23:

My idea of gunsmithing is a bigger hammer, good duct tape and baling wire, so ya'll be careful.

 

[QKShooter]

Which way are you turning it to try to get it off?


If you're doing the typical "Lefty Loosey ~ Righty Tighty" then you are actually tightening it rather than loosening it.

It's very likely reverse threaded.

The way that you would normally turn it to get it off....grab it w/ vise grips and turn it the other way.

 

[Rob13]

I know that the threads are opposite. I plan on going to the store tommorow or Monday to get some PB blaster or liquid wrench.

 

[Ram Rod]

I'm just thinking a candle flame will never get it hot enough, but at least you have a second opinion on the heat.

 

[Rob13]

I tried the candle, with some vise-grips. I did notice that the brake moved slightly. Now when i depress the plunger, It rubbs against the brake a little. So i am making small progress. Once I get the PB blaster or liquid wrench I think i will be alright.