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Hey gang! We noticed a lot of traffic coming to our website from this forum so we thought we should check in and see what is going on. As a fellow CHL holder, this looks like a promising place to learn more about this topic. We will also monitor the threads for discussions where we might have technical expertise and add comments where appropriate.

We look forward to learning more about this group! :thumbsup:
 

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Hi Bob

I'm already using 2 of your products.
Your DISOTEC Space Age Lubricant & your Armadillo Polymer Wax.
Two really fine, well researched products.
The Disotec is especially great for GLOCK Pistol internals & Stainless Smith & Wesson Guts. It is really slick stuff.
Welcome To The Forum.
 

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Usually new members are required to give one box of ammo to all the other members. In your case, we're going to have to dip into your product line. :wink:

Welcome to the forum! :biggrin:
 

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Bob - welcome to you. :smile:
 

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Welcome i used to get the stuff all the time then cabelas quit carrying and gandermountain is way over chargeing ,,, suppose i could order direct ... lol
 

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Hey Thanks for the welcome!

Hey guys! Thanks for the warm welcome. Glad to hear we have some fans here already. If you are interested in some type of promo let me know and I will talk with our marketing folks. As for Cabela's they still carry our gun cleaner and gun blue kits. They must have just been out. We ship to them on a regular basis.

Thanks again for the welcome. I look forward to participating in the group. :shakehand
 

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Welcome to the forum, BPNovum! Glad to have you join us. :smile:

Can't say I have yet tried Blue Wonder yet but I eventually get around to trying just about everything. How does the Armadillo product work on the new polymer finishes?
 

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Hi Bumper. I must admit it is nice to hear someone with an open mind. I carry a Springfield XD subcompact as my CCW weapon. Armadillo is my treatment of choice for rust protection on the slide. I also use it as a dry lube on the slide rails as it doesn't attract lint, sand and powder residue. Also fyi, our other cleaning and lubrication products are totally safe for polymer frames.
 

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I've used several "cold blues" over the years, and I've found that even after doing several coats and then wax over the top, they'd still wear off fairly quickly.

I've heard some Blue Wonder users say this isn't so of your brand.

Would you explain how that might be? (I've been thinking about picking up a BW re-blue kit at Sportsman's Warehouse but the cost - while it beats the cost of sending my gun for a professional re-blue - gives me pause.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Gun Blue...

You are correct about how cold blues work. Basically they are a controlled rust process that creates a surface coating that typically does not wear well. Blue Wonder Gun Blue is not an oxidation process, but rather a bonding process that produces a much more durable finish that any "cold blue" on the market today. It will still wear, as will a factor blue, but it is much more durable than any cold blue and nearly as durable as a good "hot blue".

The Blue Wonder Armadillo provides a hard shell coating over the top of any firearm finish that helps to protect the finish from wear and corrosion. I hope this answers your question.

As for the pricing, yes it is much more than a cold blue, but much less than sending the gun out for a hot blue. Sportsman's Warehouse is one of our top dealers and has great pricing on the product. Which store do you go to? I have probably been there. Please tell them I said hello.
 

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BPNovum said:
Hi Bumper. I must admit it is nice to hear someone with an open mind. I carry a Springfield XD subcompact as my CCW weapon. Armadillo is my treatment of choice for rust protection on the slide. I also use it as a dry lube on the slide rails as it doesn't attract lint, sand and powder residue. Also fyi, our other cleaning and lubrication products are totally safe for polymer frames.
That's good to know, too, but I meant the polymer and/or ceramic finishes (Nighthawk uses something called Perma-Kote, Robar calls it Rogard, others call it something else) that are applied to steel. I assume that if it performs well on polymer frames it would probably not hurt a polymer or ceramic based finish.

The blurb from Nighthawk on the Perma-Kote finish reads, "We are happy to offer what we believe to be the very finest finish available in the market today. The most common finishes out there are all polymer based. These finishes require some type of pre-finish, such as parkerizing, to ensure that you get a better wear life. (This process conceals the wear factor because the parkerizing is black, so you can’t see when the finish does wear.)

Perma-Kote has a ceramic base. It maintains all the natural lubricity as the polymer type, along with all the rust inhibiting qualities, but provides a longer wear life by a wide margin. All salt water and abuse trials have been performed, just as is touted about the polymer based finishes, and it passes with flying colors.

We do not perform any pre-finish applications. Perma-Kote stands on its own. What this means to you is a better quality finish that offers a much crisper look on all the surfaces where model name and brand are etched in. No more chalky feel to the finish due to parkerizing. Its not slick and slippery, but has a satin like feel."


Even though the finish itself protects the underlying steel, I still like to do a wipedown with something light to turn away any moisture (which in Arizona is usually a sweat drop, not rain :biggrin: ) and be a barrier between the finish and the elements. It sounds like it would work well, just wanting to be sure. :smile:
 

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The relatively new Albuquerque store, BPNovum. Thanks for the info. If you find yourself in ABQ again, drop me an email and I'll buy you lunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey Bumper...

Yes, the Armadillo should do a good job of providing an extra level of protection. Our gun blue product however, will not bond with the type of coatings you describe here. It will only bond to the pores of bare steel.

Erich, I have not actually been to the ABQ store. I will have to add that to my travel plans.

I will be visiting the Phoenix stores in early August. If anyone is around that area, let me know.
 

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Well, I took the plunge and bought a Blue Wonder re-blue kit (2 oz.) at SW today. I'll probably get around to trying it out in the next month or so, and I'll try to remember to post my thoughts afterward.
 

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Hi Bob!
Glad to see you found us! Hope we can share ideas with you, and you with us.. :biggrin:
 

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Is the Armadillo just a surface coat for the outside of the gun,...

...or can it be used in the bore to protect that? If so, how would one apply it to the bore?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It can be used both on the surface to protect from rust and down the bore. Down the bore, it actually inhibits fouling. In shotgun bores it improves accuracy as well. To apply down the bore, I roll up a piece of paper towel to the appropriate size, apply a good coating of Armadillo and push it through the bore with a rod. Allow that to sit for a few minutes then push a patch through to remove any excess. It will make the inside of the bore SHINE! and protect from rust, while inhibiting the build-up of lint on ccw guns.
 

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Oh dear.

Well, I tried the Blue Wonder re-blue on a S&W 36 square-but that I just had re-worked. The outside of the gun had a nice 1971-era deep factory blue with some scratches and rust freckles on it.

I followed the Blue Wonder instructions to the letter. Wearing gloves the entire time, I cleaned with the gel, completely dried the gun, applied more gel, heated the gun with hair driers, removed the gel, applied coat after coat (about 8 - the instructions said at least 6 but not more than 16) of the blue, applied a coat of the activator, and then let it sit for 6 hours. I came back then and oiled the gun, as instructed.

The gun is now seriously blued. Sort of a blue-black, about halfway between a 1990s S&W factory blue and a S&W factory anodizing.

But it's MOTTLED! The surface is covered with an "oil slick" look that's really unattractive.

Any thoughts, BP Novum, on how I might fix this?
 
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