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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Met a guy today who said he had a model 10 S&W he wanted to get rid of because it was broke and wouldn’t shoot.

I looked at it, and it seemed like someone had tried to lighten the trigger pull by loosening the main spring strain screw.
I bought, brung it home and went over it. Seems like some bubba had shortened the strain screw, and also shortened the rebound spring.
I used a spent primer to get the main spring tension adjusted enough to pop the primers, but still had to manually reset the trigger to get a cylinder off.

Other than that, timing and lock up are perfect.
Gun shoots straight and tight at 10 yards.

I’ve got a mainspring, strain screw, trigger rebound spring, and 3 new side plate screws on order.
Im glad I could save this ol girl and restore her to a state of dignity and purpose.
360723

360724
 

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I almost ruined my Win 72. 22 rifle pretending to be a gunsmith. Now I leave it to the professionals. Hopefully this one will be a much appreciated addition to your collection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I almost ruined my Win 72. 22 rifle pretending to be a gunsmith. Now I leave it to the professionals. Hopefully this one will be a much appreciated addition to your collection.
Funny thing is, I almost always have the pros work on my stuff.
The S&W revolver is one of the few things I am pretty good with, unless it’s something that needs machining.
 

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And I'm glad to hear that you were able to help old Bubba out a little bit, take that old piece of trash off his hands.

FWIW, I have quite a few parts on hand if you need anything. Hammers, triggers, firing pins, hands, locking bolts, springs, misc. small action parts, etc. All for K-frames of that era.

Also have some earlier M&P parts. Too much to list individually, but PM any specifics you may require and I'll let you know what I can provide.
 

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Met a guy today who said he had a model 10 S&W he wanted to get rid of because it was broke and wouldn’t shoot.

I looked at it, and it seemed like someone had tried to lighten the trigger pull by loosening the main spring strain screw.
I bought, brung it home and went over it. Seems like some bubba had shortened the strain screw, and also shortened the rebound spring.
I used a spent primer to get the main spring tension adjusted enough to pop the primers, but still had to manually reset the trigger to get a cylinder off.

Other than that, timing and lock up are perfect.
Gun shoots straight and tight at 10 yards.

I’ve got a mainspring, strain screw, trigger rebound spring, and 3 new side plate screws on order.
Im glad I could save this ol girl and restore her to a state of dignity and purpose.
View attachment 360723
View attachment 360724
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while.....

Nice.
 

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Nice pick up Model 10s were my first concealed carry guns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice pickup @G-man*. I was wondering if there was any problem with the gun that you couldn't have fixed after opening it up.
Yes, I think they have been sanding on the sear, because the hammer can be pushed off when cocked to the rear.
 

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There's a place in Prescott AZ that's been advertising Model 10's without the barrel for a fairly low price. How much would you think that it would cost to have a barrel installed?
 

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There's a place in Prescott AZ that's been advertising Model 10's without the barrel for a fairly low price. How much would you think that it would cost to have a barrel installed?
There were a bunch of those imported into the country that must have had some import law to remove the barrels. All the ones I looked at were previously 2" barrels because they all had the short ejector rods. I called a gunsmith and he quoted me $80 to $110 if I supplied the barrel depending on how much custom fitting he would need to do for proper cylinder gap,etc.
I knew Numrich gun parts had lots of used 2" barrels but, I dragged my feet and all the guns were sold out as well as all the barrels. The hard part now is finding a barrel. You might luck out on ebay or something but, that large shipment of guns depleted the barrel supply.
All in all it came to about the same price as buying a factory gun anyway, or at least it was before covid.
 

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That's what I figured. Still, would it have to be a 2"? Could you possibly find a 4" or even 6" that would fit it? That might make it worth it Even if it looked like a mutt.
 

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There's a place in Prescott AZ that's been advertising Model 10's without the barrel for a fairly low price. How much would you think that it would cost to have a barrel installed?
That's J&G guns. Great place, nice folks, but I wouldn't touch those unbarrelled M10s except as a fun paperweight or as a complete, I-don't-care, sow's-ear gunsmithing project.
 

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Nice wheel gun. Classic.
Congrats on a super nice find.

While you have it apart...
Polish the inside of the rebound slide. Just roll some medium to fine Wet or Dry into a tight little cylinder - shoot in some gun oil and plunge it in and out of the rebound slide hole. Don't overdo it but there are usually rings of drill chatter in there.
Take a look inside there and if it is already smooth then skip that step or just use some 1,000 grit to high polish the interior. Yours is an older gun so the machining may be better than some later S&W handguns.
Carefully stone the inside of those two protrusions that surround that rebound frame pin. You can tightly fold up some Wet or Dry and stone that area with that.
And drag the bottom of the slide and the side that contacts the frame over some 600 grit Wet or Dry to lightly polish those faces.
And very lightly "break" the bottom edge that rides the frame.
Check the entire area of the frame that the rebound slide rides against and de-burr (if necessary) & very lightly stone or polish.
Viola! - perfectly smooth Zero Grit perfectly even trigger pull.
That rebound slide travel is the main cause of a gritty uneven trigger pull as the spring compresses and the rebound slide moves along its location in the frame.
I would usually also polish the exterior coils of the replacement spring if you have a buffing wheel set up or...you could do it with a felt bob in a Dremel with some polishing compound.
Also...you are safe removing 1 or 1&1/2 coils off a factory standard weight new spring & you'll get an even lighter pull and still maintain functional reliability.

Most folks that have a heavy gritty trigger just install a lighter spring but that doesn't really solve anything.

I am best guessing that you already know not to mix the side plate screws up & to just tap the butt with something like a screwdriver handle until the plate falls off.
Some folks pry the plate off and that is a huge no-no.
Have fun.
 

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In case folks are interested, if you have a broken printer/scanner laying around or come across one - remove the scanner glass pane.
Spray the back of a sheet of (whatever grit you need) Wet or Dry with some spray adhesive and stick it down.
That scanner glass is truly flat and smooth. I always have a sheet of super fine paper on there.
It makes for a really fantastic large perfectly flat hone stone.
I have a few of them and I use them to high polish flat metal surfaces that need to stay perfecty flat.
I also used to use them with very slightly heavier grits to get the bottom flats of ivory 1911 grips perfectly flat.
It gives you a lot of fresh surface area to work with.
Remove old worn sheets with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner (clean the glass) and apply fresh paper.
 
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