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So, based on some reading and a lot of product and soul searching I finally went for a Comp-Tac Infidel IWB Kydex holster for my PM9, with the "shirt-tuck" clip.

This seems to be a great holster; my weapon slips into it easily and snaps into place securely. I really wanted a hard-shell holster for this gun since it has no active safety I consider it very important that the trigger guard is very tough and that the gun not be easily moved or dropped accidentally.

My issue is that its actually TOO hard to draw the gun. Part of this is my fault - I need a new belt. The clip is sized for a 1.5" belt (per my order) and my belt is smaller than this - gee I guess I should have measured it first but I was thinking I'd probably buy a new belt anyway.

But what happens when I draw is the holster comes half way out of my pants, and the draw takes way too long.

In addition to sorting the belt, do I need to break this holster in a bit? Just sit there and put the weapon in and out a couple hundred times?

Any other suggestions to secure this better?
 

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I've never heard of break in for Kydex, just loosen/adjust the little hex screws down at the bottom of the holster. Bet you have the correct size wrench in the package from CT.
 

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You just need a new belt. It gives the resistance needed for a good draw.
 

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"I really wanted a hard-shell holster for this gun since it has no active safety I consider it very important that the trigger guard is very tough and that the gun not be easily moved or dropped accidentally."

Actually a high quality leather holster will cover the trigger guard every bit as securely as Kydex.
High quality leather is equally as servicable as Kydex. A firearm will not move around in good leather nor will the firearm fall out.
I have absolutely no problem with you wanting to opt for a Kydex rig as VS a leather holster for any reason (or no particular reason at all) but, (just FYI) that is not a very logical or valid reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah what I currently had and was comparing to was a $12 IWB Blackhawk holster that I bought at the gun shop just to have something. Its polyster or something, and does not have many of the properties I desire - get what you pay for and it was only temporary anyway.

The good leather holsters seemed to be a bit more expensive than the Kydex but IDK if thats generally true or not and not my intention to start or have this debate - I just wanted to know if Kydex needed a break-in. Thanks for the info though.
 

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Kydex holsters in my experience don't need any break-in. In other words.....what you get is what you have. They either fit perfectly, or they don't from beginning to end. One thing folks should remember when trying a new kydex holster when their experience has mainly been with leather is that the draw is different. I cannot count the times I've said this, but with the molded kydex holsters, it's a clean and jerk draw or a good yank. It's not going to be the smooth out draw you're used to with any leather or hybrid holster. The kydex holsters should never change where as leather holsters will over time. That's why some leather holsters have tension adjustments.....kydex is kydex.
 

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If you don't have adjustment screws and are feeling brave, you can make the Kydex lose its rigidity with bit of light heating with a propane torch (or a tiny butane version... or a lighter, as like as not). If you know where it is hanging up you could heat that spot and take the indent out a bit (make the dent more shallow, if you think in auto repair terms).

Note that this is as likely to ruin your holster so only do it as a last resort. But working with Kydex is fun, and you may find you can customize the fit quite nicely (and you could always heat that spot up gently, insert the unloaded pistol, and push on it with a heating pad until it cooled to tighten it back up again). See the Kydex tutorial in the Reference and How-To section for more.
 
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