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That is my question regarding the P35 aka Browning Hi Power. The safety, when cocked and "locked" is not as sternly locked as the ones on my Sig P238 or Sig 1911 and Colt Combat Commander . These guns I have carried for year clocked and locked, and would not consider doing anything else.

HOWEVER

Just last week when I removed my Browning Hi Power from the holster, I noted the safety was off.. Thus I had been carrying the Browning clocked and unlocked. Keep in mind the holster has the trigger protected, and mine is a MK 3 requiring the trigger pulled or it won't go past half cocked.... But still I am concerned now about keeping the Browning clocked and locked.

As show in the picture for now I am carrying half cocked.

Any advise
 

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I just purchased a used BHP. The safety is "quite tight" to the extent of, a couple of times, entering somewhere I was "of a heightened SA", I actually switched to "cocked & un-locked". I can see where it could get inadvertently swept off though.
 

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The problem of the non-positive safety has been one of the principal reason I have not yet purchased a P35 (or a Colt 1903).
 

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Same problem with the ambi safety on my 1911, but it has the grip safety too. It increases the pucker factor! I'm having the ambi safety deleted.

Sent from my water damaged bag phone using Tapatalk
 

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Can't be of any help since none of my primary carry guns have externally settable safeties. Don't want any such thing on a primary carry gun.

However, FWIW, I do own a Browning Hi-Power Mark III-s.
 
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The safety can be fixed to “ snick” in place with a secure click like a 1911 style gun by a competent GS.

While the HP is a great gun, I have found them unsatisfactory out of the box because of the difficulty in manipulating the thumb safety, which imo, is much more an issue than the magazine safety.
 

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I've not had this issue when carrying any of my BHP's. The notch for the safety detent can be increased in depth to create a more positive "Click" if required by most gunsmiths.
 

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The safety can be fixed to “ snick” in place with a secure click like a 1911 style gun by a competent GS.

While the HP is a great gun, I have found them unsatisfactory out of the box because of the difficulty in manipulating the thumb safety, which imo, is much more an issue than the magazine safety.
This was my issue as well. The gun feels great in hand and I wanted to love it as much as many do but, I found the safety lacking in surface area for positive disengagement and not as instinctive as my 1911 is for me.
 

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I'm sorry to hear of your issue. The safety on my main HP is pretty easy to move, but has never switched off accidentally and I carry it everyday. My MK III has a much more positive click and I'm sure it won't switch off.

I would start by thoroughly cleaning the ball in the safety lever that presses into the detent on the frame. It might be gunked up.

Next I would replace that spring inside the safety lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the great advise

Thanks for all the great advise.

I've ordered Wolf springs for the hammer, and firing pin. The previous owner did a C&S trigger kit change, and they installed aprox 27 lb hammer spring, instead of the factory 32 lb..

As such it has issues firing EURO ammo.

I"m blessed to have a major gunsmith near my house. So I'll take my Mk 3 to Gunworks, and have their Browning specialist replace the springs, and look into the safety issue.

Thanks
 

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MY handguns with thumb safety's are one sided and I also use a body shield on the holsters that cover the thumb safety area too so there is little chance to being clicked off but normal movement and from clothing .
 

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tns, I've carried Hi Powers a fair amount, but don't recall experiencing this issue. I have seen a simple modification to address what you are reporting though. It is to remove the little spring loaded safety detent plunger, and put more of a tapered/semi-pointed profile on the part. Might be an easy and inexpensive thing to try?
 

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What you describe may be a holster issue, as much as it is a safety-lever issue.

It is possible to have a right-hand holster constructed and wet-formed, so that is "dimpled" in such a way as to trap the safety and keep it from moving. (If you're left-handed, the pistol would need an ambidextrous safety.)
I have done that exact thing for 1911s, some of which have a very similar problem.

The holster in your photo is not set up to trap the Hi-Power's safety lever.
Therefore, when your body moves against the pistol, the safety is swept to "off."
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Cylinder & Slide Wide Extended Safety

I took your advice, and when #Gunworks LLC changed out the hammer and firing pin spring the GS tighten up the safety switch. Now it’s to hard to get un engaged, and I have to use my left hand to dis engage it.

Which is me to my next question. Has any of you had the safety lever replaced with the Cylinder & Slide Wide Target Extended Safety Browning Hi-Power. or the 50% smaller safety release.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1030113740
 

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I took your advice, and when #Gunworks LLC changed out the hammer and firing pin spring the GS tighten up the safety switch. Now it’s to hard to get un engaged, and I have to use my left hand to dis engage it.

Which is me to my next question. Has any of you had the safety lever replaced with the Cylinder & Slide Wide Target Extended Safety Browning Hi-Power. or the 50% smaller safety release.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1030113740
I did not use the wide model, but did use his small extended thumb safety.

L9A1-2.jpg
 

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I took your advice, and when #Gunworks LLC changed out the hammer and firing pin spring the GS tighten up the safety switch. Now it’s to hard to get un engaged, and I have to use my left hand to dis engage it.

Which is me to my next question. Has any of you had the safety lever replaced with the Cylinder & Slide Wide Target Extended Safety Browning Hi-Power. or the 50% smaller safety release.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1030113740
Used one that looked like that one years ago (not sure it was the same product, traded it years ago for something) and found it too wide for comfortable carry. I then swapped out to a narrower C&S Extended safety and it improved the stiffness of the OEM safety and provided a better shelf for my thumb.
 
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That is my question regarding the P35 aka Browning Hi Power. The safety, when cocked and "locked" is not as sternly locked as the ones on my Sig P238 or Sig 1911 and Colt Combat Commander . These guns I have carried for year clocked and locked, and would not consider doing anything else.

HOWEVER

Just last week when I removed my Browning Hi Power from the holster, I noted the safety was off.. Thus I had been carrying the Browning clocked and unlocked. Keep in mind the holster has the trigger protected, and mine is a MK 3 requiring the trigger pulled or it won't go past half cocked.... But still I am concerned now about keeping the Browning clocked and locked.

As show in the picture for now I am carrying half cocked.

Any advise
Look at a company called BHSpringSolutions.com.
 

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I have a custom BHP that occasionally has its safety disengage. At some point I will have it tightened, but am not concerned. The brain and a trained trigger finger are always the best safeties.
 
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