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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do you draw, tap, then pull?

I bought a Ruger LC9 about a year ago. I really like it. It has been reliable (no malfunctions through 500+ rounds), accurate, and easy to carry. Until now, I had no concerns over its safety features (i.e. safety, loaded round indicator, magazine disconnect). In fact, I like it so much, a few months ago I purchased another.

Recently, while practicing drawing and firing drills (transitioning to the LC9 for more summertime carry) it happened. I inserted a loaded magazine, racked the slide chambering a round (so the mag was seated properly), holstered. I then drew and pulled the trigger. Nothing. I quickly realized the magazine disconnect was engaging. There was a visible gap between the magazine base plate and bottom of grip. I tapped the magazine plate, pulled trigger, and fired all subsequent rounds in the magazine.

I am not sure how the magazine release was engaged. The mag release button does not touch the holster, and I have never inadvertently engaged the mag release when gripping either LC9. In fact, I cannot recall ever accidently engaging the mag release on any pistol I’ve fired (which is a lot over 30 years), but I won’t say that it’s never happened.
My first thought was: I have to get rid of the mag. disconnect feature on the LC9. I then thought, this could happen on any pistol (magazine fed). Inadvertent magazine release, resulting in one shot then requiring the magazine to be properly seated (tap). Of course, with the LC9, I would not even get that first shot off without seating the mag because of the mag disconnect feature.

So, I then decided to drill where after drawing any pistol, tap the mag first, then pull the trigger for the first shot. It adds a fraction of a second before getting off the first shot, but I believe it greatly decreases the chance of a malfunction caused by inadvertent mag release. Any thoughts on this?

Do you draw, TAP, then pull (the trigger)?
 

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In the time it takes you to "tap" the magazine, if you need the gun, you could end up dead. First you need to make sure this is a problem, or perhaps you did not have the magazine properly seated when you inserted it and chambered a round. I'd clear the gun and go through the process again, 15-20 times. If the problem re-occurs, you have a problem. If not you may have not had the magazine properly seated.
 

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In the time it takes you to "tap" the magazine, if you need the gun, you could end up dead. First you need to make sure this is a problem, or perhaps you did not have the magazine properly seated when you inserted it and chambered a round. I'd clear the gun and go through the process again, 15-20 times. If the problem re-occurs, you have a problem. If not you may have not had the magazine properly seated.
Sound advice.
 

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Some resources:


What I do is the basic tap-rack-bang. Upon FTF, tap the base of the magazine hard to re-seat; rack the slide to clear the offending round (possibly racking again, if trouble clearing); then fire.

IMO, this has a high likelihood of clearing a few potential problems (failure to seat, mag disconnect issues, bad primer).

But I'd avoid the tap-bang sequence (instead of tap-rack-bang). Seems clear it has a lower chance of clearing as many issues, and that time difference might really matter in the field.

Definitely, if you experienced an issue, drill through many iterations until you nail the procedure of clearing it. Might be something wrong with the gun, if you get repeat instances.
 

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My Crossbreed Supertuck got to where it would puch the mag release on my M&P .40c when I had it. I cut a hole in the leather there and cleaned it up real nice so it didn't catch when drawing. No more problems.
 

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Also, after inserting the mag, and before chambering a round, give the mag a pull. Sometimes a full mag takes a little extra effort to properly seat itself.
 

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I'd be talking to Ruger about it and maybe trying different holsters and/or mags. I would not carry a gun that I was not confident that it would fire when I draw, the only thing I want to have to do when I clear leather is to drop the safety and pull the trigger (I carry a 1911). Any more manipulating than that is just one more thing to go wrong at the worst possible moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the comments so far.

Just to clarify. When this incident happened, I inserted a loaded magazine then manually racked the slide, chambering a round. My assumption is because the round did properly chamber, at that time the magazine was seated properly. I then holstered, drew, and at this point the mag disconnect was engaged. I have done this many times (100's) with a LC9 without this issue. Typically during my personal drills, I will draw, shoot, reholster, then draw again, repeating this procedure through each shot. After the magazine disengagement issue, I then practiced tapping the bottom of the magazine before firing and am now considering doing it as a matter of practice on all pistols, although I can only recall this issue happening on the one (newer) LC9 I have.

Thanks again for your comments and I welcome more.
 

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When I remove my pistol [45 ACP] from my Gun Vault, before holstering, I make sure the mag is seated properly and the safety is on. i don't have to worry about it after that.
 

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Unless you think you really need the mag safety there are plenty of vids available to show you how to remove that feature. It doesn't effect the gun in any other way. IF you insist on keeping the mag safety then try some other mag and make sure you have it seated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Unless you think you really need the mag safety there are plenty of vids available to show you how to remove that feature. It doesn't effect the gun in any other way. IF you insist on keeping the mag safety then try some other mag and make sure you have it seated.
I am definitely considering having that modification done.

I also thought of the specific magazine being the issue, as I have not been able to replicate the malfunction with other mags. Just a note to LC9 owners. When i purchased mine (x2) it came with one magazine marked "Made in Italy." I believe made my MecGar. When I purchased spare Ruger factory magazines, they are all marked "Made in USA." I do not know if they are Ruger factory made or if Ruger outsources them. The one malfunction was with a "Made in USA" magazine.
 

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Load it correctly you will never have that problem the Mag was never seated when it was inserted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Load it correctly you will never have that problem the Mag was never seated when it was inserted.

How do you come to that conclusion? Please reread the original post and above.

Do you draw, tap, then pull?

I bought a Ruger LC9 about a year ago. I really like it. It has been reliable (no malfunctions through 500+ rounds), accurate, and easy to carry. Until now, I had no concerns over its safety features (i.e. safety, loaded round indicator, magazine disconnect). In fact, I like it so much, a few months ago I purchased another.

Recently, while practicing drawing and firing drills (transitioning to the LC9 for more summertime carry) it happened. I inserted a loaded magazine, racked the slide chambering a round (so the mag was seated properly), holstered. I then drew and pulled the trigger. Nothing. I quickly realized the magazine disconnect was engaging. There was a visible gap between the magazine base plate and bottom of grip. I tapped the magazine plate, pulled trigger, and fired all subsequent rounds in the magazine.

I am not sure how the magazine release was engaged. The mag release button does not touch the holster, and I have never inadvertently engaged the mag release when gripping either LC9. In fact, I cannot recall ever accidently engaging the mag release on any pistol I’ve fired (which is a lot over 30 years), but I won’t say that it’s never happened.

My first thought was: I have to get rid of the mag. disconnect feature on the LC9. I then thought, this could happen on any pistol (magazine fed). Inadvertent magazine release, resulting in one shot then requiring the magazine to be properly seated (tap). Of course, with the LC9, I would not even get that first shot off without seating the mag because of the mag disconnect feature.

So, I then decided to drill where after drawing any pistol, tap the mag first, then pull the trigger for the first shot. It adds a fraction of a second before getting off the first shot, but I believe it greatly decreases the chance of a malfunction caused by inadvertent mag release. Any thoughts on this?

Do you draw, TAP, then pull (the trigger)?
Have you found that a magazine not properly seated will still typically chamber a round when the slide is manually operated?
 

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I've had my LC9 since November and I haven't had that problem, my mag is made in Italy. Did you try using the mag made in the USA to see if it would happen? The mag disconnect isn't at the very top so the mag would have to be unseated quite a bit to be engaged.
 

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I love my LC9 and carry it on a regular basis, but... I made some modifications also.

The first thing I did was remove the mag safety. In my opinion it is not needed and it lightened and smoothed the trigger pull.
The second thing I did was install a Galloway hammer. Not the trigger bar, just the hammer. That shortened the break point considerably.

FYI, I did not install the Galloway trigger bar because while it reduces the break point even more it moves the reset point WAY, WAY forward and that was unacceptable to me.
 

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One reason I don't own any modern Rugers. Take that LC9 apart, and remove the mag disconnect. Do yourself a favor. It's a lawyer feature, nothing more. It does NOTHING to protect YOU. Also, slam those mags home. Don't just push them in gently.
 

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I've had the same issue with mag release and my crossbreed Supertuck as well, but on when driving a vehicle and in a seated position with a seatbelt.

I can walk all day with it and ride a motorcycle without issue as well.
 

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My Colt and Glocks only draw and bang. All the time.

No rapping, no tapping, just a banging good time.
 
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