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I am looking into beefing up my door security after realizing the other day how easy it would be to kick my front and rear door open. I do not have much of a budget right now and I have to purchase for 2 doors. I know a full security 3 foot steel kit is best but they are about $80 each and I have two to buy. So the question is will this larger strike plate make the door harder to kick in? Is it enough?

Prime-Line 11 in. Satin Nickel Security Strike-U 10385 - The Home Depot
 

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Harder, yes. "Enough" is a relative term... nothing will totally stop someone from being able to eventually get in, but all you want is to deter or buy time to allow you to arm yourself.
 

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It's usually more about the whole than a specific part. The strike plate is nice, but the longer the screws are, the better. And that's only helpful if your frame is sturdy.
 

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^^^That. Many door jams are made with cheap pine and even longer screws are of minor help.

My delapitated iPad won't bring up the link but anything is better than nothing.
 
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There is more to it than just the strike plates. New deadbolts are needed to line up with the plates, plus as someone mentioned, stronger frames. If I were trying to invade a house, a window would be my first choice. A well placed fairly large object such as a lawn chair makes a picture window a very wide entry quickly.

I prefer a weapon as the best deterrent.
 

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Beefing up your doors is a great idea. It should just be part of your home security. I understand it all takes money to accomplish. Using security cameras around your house is a good investment and they can be had at a relatively reasonable price. Also the quality has gotten better over the years. Motion detector lights at doors are good. Any kind of alarm that makes a loud enough noise. I know not for everyone, but that 85lb Shepherd or other appropriate breed with good fight drive on the other side of the door can be ur best savior. Anything is better than nothing. Just giving you that extra time to be alerted, armed and ready.
 

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Most newer homes w/ pre-hung doors come with the hinges screwed into the jamb/frame side with very short 3/4" screws. Those screws are just meant for shipping and transporting the door unit. They are supposed to be replaced with at least 3" hardened screws so that they go into the jack studs. Very few builders or installers do this!:frown: It is very easy to check this by removing a couple of screws on the hinge side that go into the frame. A hardened strike plate and good quality deadbolt w/ at least 3" hardened screws are also excellent for "hardening" your entrance doors.
 

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Nothing is burglar proof. All you can do is slow them down or discourage them into going somewhere else. I replaced my front and back doors with heavy duty, solid core doors. I replaced the inch long screws in the hinges and latch assembly with 3.5'' screws. A determined thief can still get through it in a matter of a minute or so if they had a crowbar. I also have an alarm system and six large dogs. Most determined burglars would just break a window after trying to get in my door. My goal isn't to prevent them from getting in, it's to make my house less appealing than the neighbor's.

The last guy that tried to get in didn't even try the door. He went straight to the back of the house and cut the screen on the window. At that point he was greeted by my Ridgeback and he left without getting in.
 

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Remember they come in two's or three's. You may be able to slow them down (good).
If they want in, they'll likely get in if they are determined. Just be ready for that.

Have a plan, a good plan!
 

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I decided to get the plates and use them till I can afford a better kit. I had already planned on replacing the hinge screws with 3 or 3.5 inch screws. Already have 2 dogs and enough firepower just want to slow them down.

Once I get the full kits in the future I plan on getting window security film as well.
 

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Now that you are completely confused, I'll toss in my view. You want noise to alert you. You want to protect your people. You have insurance for the rest. A small happy dog , a motion sensor alarm. Harden you bedroom doors and find the best firing position to protect you and yours. Maybe a chokepoint in a hallway with a 12 gauge loaded with buck to discourage passage. A cell phone or two to call for help. You are not a cop. Your goal is survival. Make them come to you on your chosen ground. If they steal your TV and leave, you have won. An insurance claim will fix everything. If you shoot, lawyers bill will mount up. If you have to shoot, shoot twice so there is no claim of accidental discharge. A chest full of 00 will stop the threat.
 

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As some have already said, it's near impossible to make doors completely impenetrable, but you can slow them down with a few tricks.
What I did was put metal covered doors up both front and back. The frames were put in with 6 inch hardened crews. Commercial grade knob lock and dead bolts were added also. Then in addition 4 inch slide bolts top and bottom along with a length of 5/16ths hardened, welded chain.
It end up looking like this. Pretty sure it will slow someone down long enough for me and our 100 pound pup to be ready for them.
 

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Before getting just a strike plate, I'd get a door jam that goes under the door knob. Give up McD's for a bit and there's the extra $$$ for the second kit. You'll still have the door jam for travel or to use on an interior door that you've switched to solid core :wink:
 

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I am looking into beefing up my door security after realizing the other day how easy it would be to kick my front and rear door open. I do not have much of a budget right now and I have to purchase for 2 doors. I know a full security 3 foot steel kit is best but they are about $80 each and I have two to buy. So the question is will this larger strike plate make the door harder to kick in? Is it enough?

Prime-Line 11 in. Satin Nickel Security Strike-U 10385 - The Home Depot
Depending what you have now it could be that a couple of 3 inch replacement screws will do just as much as what's in this link.
Then get one full plate now and the other after you save up for it.
 

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I know what you mean, about the cost, after much discussion, I finally convinced the wife to allow me to put a steel security door in the front, which was kinda a mistake, because, then she wanted the side-door also, (to car port)...so two doors, the style she wanted, plus installation. $700 (+/-).... we had a wooden screen door on the front, with blinds that went downward and you could never see who was at the door, the side-door was a standard wooden screen door. I am glad to have replaced them...I will have a $100 bill for the next 8 months.


Of course the front and side are protected, but we have a glass sliding door to the back porch, we plan to build an enclosure to the back porch, but we still have the windows to worry about, but of course Burglars, only come thur the front door, so I got that covered. :confused:
 
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Have you thought about window tint for the glass doors and windows? They make some speciality film for security purposes that should help with someone throwing things through them.


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try hurricane doors & windows....pretty heavy duty

https://www.andersenwindows.com/planning/articles/coastal-storm-windows-doors/

Monolithic Impact-Resistant Glass is reinforced with a clear plastic laminate sandwiched between two panes to resist impact, forced entry and unwanted noise. Choose from clear or gray. Available in: A-Series Patio Doors, E-Series, 400 Series Windows, Weiland
 

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Most newer homes w/ pre-hung doors come with the hinges screwed into the jamb/frame side with very short 3/4" screws. Those screws are just meant for shipping and transporting the door unit. They are supposed to be replaced with at least 3" hardened screws so that they go into the jack studs. Very few builders or installers do this!:frown: It is very easy to check this by removing a couple of screws on the hinge side that go into the frame. A hardened strike plate and good quality deadbolt w/ at least 3" hardened screws are also excellent for "hardening" your entrance doors.
You know what really grinds my gears about modern home construction?

The fetish for sidelight windows. It doesn't matter if your door is any good if it's surrounded on all sides by windows.
 

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Almost two years ago when I built my retirement Villa, I engineered the external door frames and the master suite entry door as insulated steel doors with the door frames held by two 2x6 studs on each side so I could use 6 inch screws on the twin strike plates. It will take a lot of pressure to blast thru those doors. If the door to the master suite gets breached, everything coming thru will be shot dead in a hail of gun fire. The external doors give me time to retreat further if needed. During this process I am not calling 911 but working to stop the threat. The police are usually there to take notes of what happened not to stop it.
 
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