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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I came across a used S&W 640 that looked like it never left the box for a good price and so I had to get it. Got a crossbreed holster for it, and headed out to the range. First thing I noticed after shooting a cylinder of +p ammo through it? There is SO much less recoil than the airweights I have shot. It didn't soak up quite as much recoil as the Ruger SP101, but it still was easy enough that I might consider carrying .357 (not sure yet though). Shoots around 3" high at 8-9 yards, and my groups were nowhere near what I shoot with my Kimber Ultra Carry, but I could still put all 5 rounds inside a grapefruit sized target and that pretty solid considering thats my second time ever shooting a revolver. That said, it conceals much more comfortably than my 1911 since I don't have that sharp corner stabbing me in the side. I have a night sight on the way to replace that front ramp, and I am considering having a smith do a trigger job on it. The guy at the shop I talked to said a lot of times they won't drop the trigger weight since it is a carry gun and that is the main safety features. I also was reading about the trigger return being a little more sluggish with the reduced power springs. Am I better off just having the smith do some smoothing of the internals in general and leaving the stock springs on it?

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Well, I came across a used S&W 640 that looked like it never left the box for a good price and so I had to get it. Got a crossbreed holster for it, and headed out to the range. First thing I noticed after shooting a cylinder of +p ammo through it? There is SO much less recoil than the airweights I have shot. It didn't soak up quite as much recoil as the Ruger SP101, but it still was easy enough that I might consider carrying .357 (not sure yet though). Shoots around 3" high at 8-9 yards, and my groups were nowhere near what I shoot with my Kimber Ultra Carry, but I could still put all 5 rounds inside a grapefruit sized target and that pretty solid considering thats my second time ever shooting a revolver. That said, it conceals much more comfortably than my 1911 since I don't have that sharp corner stabbing me in the side. I have a night sight on the way to replace that front ramp, and I am considering having a smith do a trigger job on it. The guy at the shop I talked to said a lot of times they won't drop the trigger weight since it is a carry gun and that is the main safety features. I also was reading about the trigger return being a little more sluggish with the reduced power springs. Am I better off just having the smith do some smoothing of the internals in general and leaving the stock springs on it?

View attachment 72023

Smoothing and stiffness are two different things. If the trigger pull is not "gritty" and not "catching" it can still be stiff. The Smith comes with an 18 pound rebound slide spring and an 8.5 pound mainspring. You can get a wolf kit and a tool used to removed the rebound spring (go to this thread and read post 15: http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum...its-comparable-kits-experiences-good-bad.html )

You can smooth is and make it a bit easier if you get an arkansas stone and smooth the engagement surfaces (but STAY AWAY from the sear). Watch this video if you are interested in doing it yourself: S&W Airweight Trigger Job: "The Yoda G Mod" - YouTube

Also, you should know the proper way of removing a side plate - remove the screws and tap the frame where the grip mounts cross ways with a hammer. I recommend you buy this book: The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen

finally, you can just replace the rebound spring with a 13 pound spring and leave the stock hammer spring in. You will not have light strikes. FWIW, I've replaced several of the stock mainsprings with 8 pound wolff springs and I have had no light strikes in hundreds of rounds. Nor have I outraced the trigger. I even have an 11 pound rebound spring in one of my smiths and the trigger is fine.

Good luck. Let me know if you have any questions!

Edit: if you do decidedto do this yourself, try not to cycle the trigger with the sideplate off as in the video. The 640's can bind with the side plate off, so you have to exercise a bit of finness. Don't force it. And to take the hammer out, you need to pull the hammer back so it is out of the groove cut into the top part of the frame "hump."

and of course, you can always have a Gunsmith do it if you don't feel like messing with it. But the smith will always have a bit of a stiff trigger, given its size
 

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Awesome buy !!!!! I got an LCR 38 spcl saturday.... im loving it
 
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Love snubs, a good gunsmith can make a great gun even better, I use Gemini an really love their work. Revolver Wood Fashion accessory I carry speed strips with my sp or the mod60 pictured. Take them to the range and only reload from them you will be amazed how fast you get.
 

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I good snub is a handy tool. I put a set of Wolff springs in my 442 and it helped it a ton, and hasn't harmed reliability at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah I looked at ordering some wolff springs for mine if I decide to have it modified. Only have 60 rounds through it so far, but no complaints on the function of the gun at all. Might add some wooden grips at some point, depending on if these rubber grips catch at all on clothing etc.
 

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Love snubs, a good gunsmith can make a great gun even better, I use Gemini an really love their work. View attachment 72027 I carry speed strips with my sp or the mod60 pictured. Take them to the range and only reload from them you will be amazed how fast you get.
You've got to stop posting that picture, my wallet can't handle it!!

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You've got to stop posting that picture, my wallet can't handle it!!

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I agree. I went and looked at their site and your revolver is even one of their major display pieces. Its almost ridiculous.
 

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Very nice revolver choice!
 

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The 640 is a great revolver. You will not be disappointed. Mine had a wonderfully smooth trigger pull out of the box, but I still had a local gunsmith work on it. He simply smoothed the internals even more. He did not lighten the springs, but the trigger pull seemed to be noticeably lighter after I got it back. He also added an XS Big Dot sight which I like (sounds like you're thinking the same thing). It is certainly worth having someone work on it a bit to make a great gun even better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The trigger wasn't as bad as I was expecting it would be. I dry fired it a couple times in the store and the trigger pull came in on the gauge at 12 lbs. It isn't overly gritty, but it seems to be very frontloaded in terms of where along the pull the weight is distributed. Sort of like a compound bow if that makes any sense.
 

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12 pounds is the common trigger pull for a j-frame. Nothing abnormal there.
 

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I should be getting my 642 back from them next week cant wait had bead blast finish on frame an high polish chamber an barrel, ported with big dot jeweled trigger with some wood grips
 
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