[Rock and Glock]

I'd add an appliance dolly too.....along with the beer. UHaul rents 'em. Can handle big refridges, freezers too. Good luck

Edit (post p95 answer)...chain saw too.

Leave the beer to later.

Welcome to the forum, too!

 

[P95Carry]

We had a thread on safe moving a while back - http://www.combatcarry.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=6044 tho that was dealing with problems of 2nd floor!!

Right now 40" and 36" do not equate - that seems like the big hurdle.?! Also will your floor loading be OK for this 1/2 ton behemoth?

Some folks suggest paying maybe $100 -$150 and get a pro along, with moving equipment tho, lot's of muscle power and rollers etc can work wonders.

One major thing I would always suggest - if a team of guys roped in - it is IMO essential that things are rehearsed and co-ordinated, as there is too much risk of someone being hurt otherwise.

 

[4my sons]

Cajun,

Coming from a background in framing houses, the 40" vs the 36" is going to be a huge problem. The opening is 36", Even if you remove the entire door frame, you won't get more than maybe 38", 38-1/2" at the most.


recheck the size of the safe, is a true 40"?

You might want to reconsider changing the safe for a slightly smaller one.


Like Chris said, Wouldn't hurt to check the floor. If you can access it, Adding some floor joist wouldn't hurt. PM me if you want, I can explain that, it's not hard, just a pain.

 

[MattInFla]

If it is 40" wide, how deep is it - it might fin through the door sideways.

If not, I think you are SOL.

Matt

 

[Scott]

Even my big safes went through the doors sideways. Personally I paid the pros to move the two I have now. Well worth it IMHO. I did move a 1300lbs beast with three other guys. Only one of us was under 200lbs and the one was a 300lb beast. We did it, but the safe was scratched up and the door frame was hurt a bit because trying to control that much weight was near impossible.

Anyway, get some golf balls from a driving range. Old crappy ones are fine. Put them down on the floor as you stand up the safe and roll the safe to where you want it and remove the golf balls until you get it set. Omni directional rollers.

Don't slide that beast on your carpet or you may create a wave in the carpet and pull it away from the wall. Plus the bottoms usually aren't finished, so it could snag your carpet as well. The cart may work fine inside, but it may also wave your carpet depending on the wheels it has and the pad you have under your carpet.

Good luck and welcome to the forums.

-Scott-

 

[cajunammodump]

I may have steered some of yall in the wrong direction. LOL! The safe is 40" wide x 28" deep x 60" tall. It will fit through the door sideways. I am just trying to find the best method to move it. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

 

[CopperKnight]

The golf balls sound like a good idea. In the past I've used pipes to roll one on. Find some with a large enough diameter and it will slide right over the threshold. The balls would be better for corners I'd imagine.

 

[4my sons]

The golf balls sound like a good idea. In the past I've used pipes to roll one on. Find some with a large enough diameter and it will slide right over the threshold. The balls would be better for corners I'd imagine.

Yeah, Pipes, Yeah,

A buddy of mine and myself, moved a hot tub. 12' x 12' with the enclosed frame and all the pumps by ourselves using three pipes and rolling it. If you have it on a Dolly, that works best, then you have good handles to grab, if of course it has the strap.

 

[4my sons]

Also, don't forget about maybe adding some floor support, Ammo adds a lot of weight.

 

[mkeBob]

You could probably rent a narrow pallet jack and use plywood on top of the carpet, if you have the room to maneuver it.

 

[miwall]

Move your safe

I purchased my safe and they delivered it using a piano dolly. The safe maker and his worker,(a little skinny guy) delivered it with no problem. I think I would have paid him to do it if I would have had to. Your back is worth more than $100 or more. Make sure that you reinforce your flooring if you have wood floors. Good luck

 

[ExSoldier]

This has been very informative for me. I currently have a jury rigged "safe" in my home, I reinforced my closet door with two key locking dead-bolts and a .75 in thick sheet of marine plywood on the inside to which I added felt and rubber covered hook screws to support my handguns. I was going to buy a safe, but now we have decided to leave well enough alone in our wood floored 1932 home. We'll wait until we move to retire and BUILD our dream home. At that time, I'll simply add on an extra concrete and steel reinforced room and have a real vault door installed. That way we can put other valuables in there too. And documents, etc. I'll make sure the vault can be opened from the inside, too.

 

[4my sons]

This has been very informative for me. I currently have a jury rigged "safe" in my home, I reinforced my closet door with two key locking dead-bolts and a .75 in thick sheet of marine plywood on the inside to which I added felt and rubber covered hook screws to support my handguns.

Ex,

That sounds a lot better than nothing, but is their any side of the closet that faces another room. The walls are just plaster on each side and could be broken through fairly easily.

That's the big draw back about my house now, It has vinyl siding, a hammer and a few minutes, I could gain access to any open space along the outside of the house. The walls are sheetrock on the inside, insulation in-between, and a sheet of insulating board or plywood then your siding. Not really much there. I'm not that kind of carpenter, but more than one thief has been in the profession before.

 

[Rocnerd]

This has been very informative for me. I currently have a jury rigged "safe" in my home, I reinforced my closet door with two key locking dead-bolts and a .75 in thick sheet of marine plywood on the inside to which I added felt and rubber covered hook screws to support my handguns. I was going to buy a safe, but now we have decided to leave well enough alone in our wood floored 1932 home. We'll wait until we move to retire and BUILD our dream home. At that time, I'll simply add on an extra concrete and steel reinforced room and have a real vault door installed. That way we can put other valuables in there too. And documents, etc. I'll make sure the vault can be opened from the inside, too.

Hey EX, I got my safe at Bass Pro during one of their sales, July 4th I think. It was a good price made better since I got the one off the floor with an added discount. Bass Pro won't deliver, but they will give you the card of someone who will pick it up for you and put it wherever you want in your house and bolt it down for $100 - $150. As good as any excuse to go to that store,even if you don't buy.

 

[ExSoldier]

Ex,

That sounds a lot better than nothing, but is their any side of the closet that faces another room. The walls are just plaster on each side and could be broken through fairly easily.

That's the big draw back about my house now, It has vinyl siding, a hammer and a few minutes, I could gain access to any open space along the outside of the house. The walls are sheetrock on the inside, insulation in-between, and a sheet of insulating board or plywood then your siding. Not really much there. I'm not that kind of carpenter, but more than one thief has been in the profession before.

Because my place was built in 1932, maybe '36...it has these poured concrete walls (Das BUNKER) and the interior walls are crafted from thin wooden laps blended with concrete. When we redid the kitchen many years ago (by ourselves) it was a weeks work to get through the walls. My wife's dad is a licensed general contractor and a state building inspector so all our work is to code. My wife does plumbing, electrical, and carpentry. She can cook too. Which is why within five years of getting married, I'd put on 100 pounds. She is definitely the brains and motivation. I'm responsible for security.

Folks entering our place will face the burglar alarm a dangerous neighbor (my neighbor is a former army Cobra pilot and used to be the local NRA rep), and our two full grown Newfoundland dogs who will crush them to death by sitting on their chest and licking them into a coma. :spankme:

 

[Dingle1911]

My vote is paying someone to move it for you. Your back is worth lots of money. But if you are set on moving it yourself then the pipes and or golf balls are great ideas. As was said before make sure to check your floor capacity.

 

[MattInFla]

Folks entering our place will face the burglar alarm a dangerous neighbor (my neighbor is a former army Cobra pilot and used to be the local NRA rep), and our two full grown Newfoundland dogs who will crush them to death by sitting on their chest and licking them into a coma. :spankme:

Newfies are not dogs - they are hairy eclipses :image035:

Matt

 

[ExSoldier]

Hairy Eclipse?

Newfies are not dogs - they are hairy eclipses :image035:

Matt

Hmmmmm well the only evidence I can cite in support of your theory is three brand new and totally broken vacume cleaners, and a entire interior carpet ripped up so the hardwood could be refurbished to be more shed hair friendly....oh and I have to keep everything higher than tail sweep height, including firearms.

 

[Rock and Glock]

My wife does plumbing, electrical, and carpentry. She can cook too...... I'm responsible for security.

Folks entering our .......and our two full grown Newfoundland dogs who will crush them to death by sitting on their chest and licking them into a coma. :spankme:

Sounds like the Newfies are in charge of security in "Das Bunker"!

The way your house is built - the whole thing is "vault" spec'd.