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686 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to field strip my Ruger 22/45 Mrk III. In the instructions, it says that a blow from a hammer to the back of the reciever will disconnect the reciever from the grip assembly.

I've tried this, and I can't get the pistol apart. Does anyone have any suggestions.

I'm also nervous about not taking it any further apart, because may have changed the allignment of the hammer, and I don't want to ruin my pistol.

:( Now I've found something I dislike about the Ruger (it's a PITA to take apart!!!)


145,421 Posts
might help

Click Here

Mark II 22/45
web document

I have been working with the Ruger Mark II for almost 10 years now and the
most common complaint I have heard about it is that it is tough to field
strip and reassemble. Over the years I have disassembled and reassembled
them enough that I can pretty much do it in my sleep. But I have had people
come into my store more times than I can count with a Ruger Mark II because
they took it apart to clean it and couldn't get it back together. So I
decided to write a short article explaining some of the tricks I've learned
over the years.

The Ruger Mark II, although it may not look that way to a beginner is really
a very simple design. The trick to easily field stripping the Ruger is to
understand the basic operation of the parts you are working with and their
relation to the other parts. So I decided to try and explain this as best I
could, hopefully without confusing you even more. I will use pictures of one
of my Mark II's so you can actually see what I am talking about.

Step 1 Safety First
As always, the first step is to take the magazine out of the gun and to make
sure the chamber is empty. If you don't know what I'm talking about...STOP
THE LESSON. You have no business picking up a gun if you don't know how to
unload it or how to check if it is unloaded and safe. I hate hearing stories
about "accidents" where people get shot or shoot someone else while
"cleaning" their gun.

Step 2 Removing the Mainspring Housing
Use a small screwdriver to pry the mainspring-housing latch outward until it
stops.(pic-1) Next, pull the mainspring housing up toward the top of the
gun. (pic-2) Now pull the mainspring housing down and out of the gun.
(pic-3) Here I show the relation of the mainspring housing to the frame.

Step 4 Removing the Bolt and Receiver
Now you can slide the receiver forward (toward the front of the gun) and
remove it from the frame. If your receiver is tight to the frame, it may be
necessary to use a rubber or rawhide mallet to tap it free. Hold the barrel
and tap the front of the frame and it should come free. Then the bolt simply
slides out the back of the receiver. The bolt can be removed before you
remove the receiver from the frame if you like. (pic-5)

Step 5 Cleaning
This is as far as you need to break down your pistol for cleaning. Now that
you have field stripped your pistol, you are ready to clean it. Be sure to
clean the inside of the receiver and the face of the bolt thoroughly. I use
a dental pick to scrape out the "gunk" inside the receiver, then I use
Q-tips to get the rest out. The chamber should also be cleaned, but the
barrel usually needs very little cleaning. I almost never clean the barrel
on my 22's. I like to use a 22 bore brush in the chamber, but instead of
going back and forth, I twist it clockwise. This method works for me. As far
as the frame goes, I usually use Crud Cutter spray to blast all the loose
dirt out and then lightly oil the moving parts. Once a year or so I'll
completely disassemble the frame and clean each part thoroughly, but this is
a lot more complicated than simple field stripping. Now that your pistol is
clean, your are ready to reassemble it.

Step 7 Before you Start
Before you start to reassemble your pistol, you need to look at a few
things. Look at the mainspring housing (pic-6) There is a slot in the top
with a spring and plunger in it. The hammer strut will be guided into that
slot as you install the mainspring housing. (pic-7) look at pic 7, the
hammer strut is on the bottom of the hammer and moves freely back and forth.
Look at your frame and find the hammer strut, notice its movement as you
tilt the frame back and forth. Notice where the hammer strut is in relation
to the frame, you will need to remember this when reassembling your pistol.

Step 8 Reassemble your Pistol
The first step is to insert the bolt back into the receiver, but before you
do this, rub a light coating of oil over the outside of the bolt. Be sure
the bolt slides in freely and goes in all the way to the face of the barrel.

Step 9 Install Receiver
Now the receiver is ready to be installed onto the frame. Place the receiver
on top of the frame and slide it from front to back onto the frame. Again,
if your frame/receiver fit is tight, you may have to tap the rear of the
frame to get it fully seated.

Step 10 Install the Mainspring housing
This is the part most people have a hard time with. Just be patient and
follow my directions and it will be easy. The first thing to do is the hold
your pistol by the barrel with the barrel facing down. You are holding it
this way so that the hammer strut is resting against the frame of the gun
and is out of the way of the mainspring housing (pic-8) Now guide the
mainspring housing into the frame all the way until you can see the end of
the pin sticking out of the top of the receiver. (pic-9) and (pic-10) Now it
is time to hold the gun so the barrel is pointing at the sky. The reason for
this is that the hammer strut will now be resting against the mainspring
housing so it will slide into the slot when you close the mainspring
housing. (pic-11) The next trick is to place one of your fingers on the
trigger and hold it back all the way, the reason for doing this is that if
the hammer is cocked, the mainspring housing will be forced back out be the
hammer spur as you try to close it. With the trigger depressed, the hammer
will uncock and the mainspring housing will go in freely. Now close the
mainspring housing into the frame and look at it. Does it sit flush with the
frame? If so pull it back out and try again. It should stick out about a
quarter inch that how you can tell if the hammer strut is in the notch on
the mainspring housing and that it has tension on it.(pic-12) Is yours
sticking out a quarter inch? Yes? Very good, you got it on the first try.
Now simply close the mainspring housing latch and your done!!!

Step 11 Final Inspection
Now comes the moment of truth, pull back the bolt. Does it come back all the
way? If it does the gun is assembled correctly. If you try to pull back the
bolt and it only goes back an inch or so, that means that the hammer spur is
not in the slot on the mainspring housing. Don't be discouraged, all you
have to do is open the latch and try to guide it in again. With a little
practice you'll be a pro at it. I also do a routine check of the functioning
of the pistol after its back together. Pull back the bolt so the pistol is
cocked. Now put the safety on and pull the trigger to make sure it works.
Then take the safety off and pull the trigger to make sure it is moving
freely and the hammer releases. One last check I do is to put an empty
magazine into the pistol and pull back the bolt to make sure the bolt stop
moves freely and the bolt locks open. Now you're ready to go to the range
and test out your nice clean pistol. When you get home your pistol will be
dirty again and you can start all over. Remember, practice makes perfect.

Premium Member
25,481 Posts
Kudos QK - I was about to try and come to rescue - hopefully you have done just that.

The worst part for me has always been the absolute final stage, making sure that strut is back in place.

Best advice I give is NEVER use extreme force - just persevere and hold gun up and at an angle so all goes into place before closing the lever up.

It does get easier after first coupla tries Jim :smile:

145,421 Posts
He Could Just Buy The Video

Warning on reassembly
If that strut is not in the right place the pistol WILL go back together again but, the bolt will not move rearward and another disassembly will be dang near impossible for you to fix it without a gunsmith to help you out.

BTW I did find a page for Mark III 22/45 Takedown but, something is wrong with the site. It keep jamming my 'puter when I try to select all & copy the text.
And when I try to link to the page it shows as a dead link on the forum. Very strange.

145,421 Posts
firefighter - try looking here

Go to this web page:
RUGER - Click Here

Then click on FORUM in the top left block.

Then use the search block & search:



Take Down




I think you'll find some good help there.

686 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the help guys,

Managed to get it apart using the rubber handle of an hold hammer instead of a rubber mallet (not the best, but it did work, and I had it here)...

Got the gun all cleaned and lubed and ready to go, because tomorrow, it's off to take some other new person to the range :). I'm gonna try and average at least 2 people per week. We'll see, after Iget my job and stuff how much time I have available.

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