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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Russian SKS with the numbers matching, except someone replaced the reciever housing with one of those scope mounts (see pictures)



Basically using a Red-Dot at 50 ft. it sprays a non-sensical array of bullets in 12" diameter, At 50 yds I am lucky to get more than one in 10 on an 18"x18" target. I have been trying to get an original reciever cover so I can try the Iron sights (see second pic) My thought is that the reciever housing itself is moving - but maybe I should expect this from an old SKS.

It could be my shooting I guess, cause I am no trained marksman but my only other rifle is a 10/22 and I can shoot groups with that and only iron sights at 50 and 100 yds. I'm kind of fed up with this rifle after wasting money on different scopes, lots of different ammo etc...

Should I just get rid of it?
 

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My Norinco SKS groups about 4"-6" MOA with irons,It is probably your mount shifting around.How does your muzzle crown look,Is it dinged up at all?
 

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I have a red dot on my Norinco and have found the receiver cover mount is a bit less than solid - however it does appear to always settle back to same position and so groups are acceptable.

Sure - not stellar accuracy but good for steel plate at 100 yds. I have considered drilling and tapping the front right of the mount to place a small set screw - which could then take up the slack and then be Loctited.

Does seem like yours may be too sloppy and yeah - worth checking that crowning is not damaged, tho at 50 yards even that shouldn't be too noticeable in effect.


 

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I had a simular problem with a Yugo model, I did get a new rear housing and it improved quite a bit. It seemed that the old one was damaged by the "engineer" who put the scope mount on. I also had the trigger improved a bit by a gunsmith. All in all it a decent little shooter now. none of the work done to improve it was expensive either. I would have your sks inspected by a gunsmith before you get rid of it . A good Russian sks is getting harder to find these days. By the way, i don't have a scope on mine anymore. I get good accuracy with the iron sights set on the 300 meter setting for 100yd groupings. Hope this helps you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
roadrash said:
Is it dinged up at all?


Thats the dangerous end - The rifling does look worn also and they obviously used corrosive ammo in this at some point.
Do any of you know where to get a plain reciever cover (without the mount) all I can find is mount covers identical to what you find in Cheaper than Dirt.

paknheat said:
I would have your sks inspected by a gunsmith before you get rid of it
Also I took it to the local gunstore (where I bought it incidentally) and they have a gunsmith - they refused to look at it - Apparently AKs and SKSs are throw away guns. Still looking for someone around here that I can count on.

P95Carry - Nice gun
 

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yoshi - well crown does not look dinged but sure ain't the prettiest muzzle I ever saw!!! I have a beat up Yugo that probably is in same category but it's hidden by that grenade launcher thingie!!!

I am sure a std cover must be available - CDNN I am thinking has parts kits but not sure - and have seen other fliers with lots of old stuff - just cannot remember anything specific right now.
 

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Hate to tell ya bro,but that bore is shot!Here is a photo of the muzzle of my SKS,Notice the smooth crown and the rifling that is present.

Stick a live round, bullet first into the end of the muzzle,I would be willing to bet you can insert it till it bottoms out on the mouth of the case!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
roadrash said:
Hate to tell ya bro,but that bore is shot!
...
Stick a live round, bullet first into the end of the muzzle,I would be willing to bet you can insert it till it bottoms out on the mouth of the case!
I just tried what you suggest, the case is sitting about 1mm from the end of the barrel, but it does "wobble" side to side in one direction.
As for the bore being shot, I'm willing to accept that if it is, thats why I want to know if I should just get rid of it.

OldDawg - thanks for the link
 

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Sounds like a good rifle to practice some basic gunsmithing on!First off ,buy the $9 part and eliminate that possibility,then get the appropiate size round headed screw and some lapping compound.Chuck the screw in your electric hand held drill and smear the head of it with lapping compound,ream that crown till you get a nice consistent ,slight chamfer at the bottom of the barrels grooves.This should also tell you if the bores muzzle is coencentric.Could be elongated due to cleaning rod damage.
I would keep the rifle,how much are you really gonna get for it anyways?I have seen some M1 rifles with some pretty bad bores that shot pretty decent.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
roadrash- great idea. I'll save the pic of your crown so I know what mine should look like :smile:
 

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well no offense cheif but if you are having a problem with accuracy first check your ammo, then check your sights, then let someone else shoot your gun to see if the reults are repeatable ;)
 

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Yoshi, something else to bear in mind- these surplus guns have had years of steel rods being run down the bore from the muzzle-end. My guess is a re-crown would do wonders for you, along with replacing the scope mount.

The gun shop you went to must surely have been owned by a man named Ba'alam, for you surely spoke with a talking ass!:biggrin2: Seriously, they won't touch it because they realize that folks spending $100-200 on a rifle won't generally shill out $80 for their work. ($20 job, with $60 "shop-time").

I have a manual crowning cutter (11 degree), with .30 cal pilot that I'm willing to loan, if you promise on your most beloved's beating heart to return it:ticking: . Very easy to do- attach the pilot to the cutter, slide pilot into bore, apply steady downward pressure while turning clockwise. Remove the cutter every 6 turns or so, and brush off the shavings. Stop when you have a nice 11 degree slope from the outer edge of your barrel to the mouth of the bore (the edges of your visible rifling should look much "sharper", BTW). Use cutting oil, or something like brake fliud or Marvel Mystery oil, liberally, when cutting. PM me, if you're interested.

As Heckke says, ammo will make a difference- even WWB should be a bit more consistant than Wolf, etc..
 
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