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I have acquired a 38 S&W 3rd gen break top lemon squeezer dates around 1897... It has a good cylinder and a good bore, it seems to function well, grip safety works, though I have not shot it yet, I am going to take it to a smith to examine it and pick up some 38S&W ammo.

My question is: How do I remove external rust? It has some cosmetic blemishes and pitting and some rust in the pitting... I have covered it in CLP and used a rust removing hoppes rag to clean some of it up. Is there anything else to remove the rust or smooth the blemishes?

Thanks, for the help!
 

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As far as removing rust
Surface rust can sometimes be remved by like you used CLP or a GOOD bore cleaner (Hoppes works for me) but ifit is harder to remove than using cleaner and such, go with steel wool 00 - 0000 depending on severity of the rust with some bore cleaner on it - JUST A NOTE you might have to touch up/reblue to make it look nice again just because of removing the rust this way. Also, for light rust in smaller crevices a pick or a good small brush (poly and Brass bristle) will work well. Im surew one of our resident members who do this stuff more often are going to chime in and help ya out
~Steve
 

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Unfortunately, once the corrosion process has started, there is no way to "remove" it unless you remove the metal around it until you've reached the bottom of the pit. All you can do is try to remove the oxidation (the rust color) and from that point on, keep the metal surface well oiled. Once moisture touches metal with an iron content, the corrosion process begins. Water and air on any metal with iron in it is suceptable to rusting. All you can do is remove as much of the visible rust from the surface and keep it well oiled. Rust is cancer and will continue to evolve until it has consumed its target. Keep it well oiled to prevent growth.
 

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Unfortunately, once the corrosion process has started, there is no way to "remove" it unless you remove the metal around it until you've reached the bottom of the pit. All you can do is try to remove the oxidation (the rust color) and from that point on, keep the metal surface well oiled. Once moisture touches metal with an iron content, the corrosion process begins. Water and air on any metal with iron in it is susceptible to rusting. All you can do is remove as much of the visible rust from the surface and keep it well oiled. Rust is cancer and will continue to evolve until it has consumed its target. Keep it well oiled to prevent growth.
How to clean rust?
This is it exactly......you can't. Hiding it or inhibiting it has become a science of it's own.
 

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When I inherited my grandfather old (and poorly cared for) cz75 it was covered in oxidation. I broke it completely down and through it into my ultra sonic cleaner with some lemon juice. Rinsed it off afterward and blew it dry with compressed air. It came out looking good as new. I've never fired it though... it's more of a heirloom/display thing.

I found, however, that if the rust is deep enough, the ultrasonic cleaner will actually split whatever piece of metal is corroded.

If it's only surface rust it might actually work for you.... just be sure to thoroughly dry the gun and oil it like crazy. I'm just putting it out there.................. can't say for sure whether or not you should try it.
 

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I've had rust problems in the past, also. I'm wondering, after you get rid of the surface rust, if there's any pitting or damage to the bluing, could you sand it down and duracoat it? Would that put an end to it?
 

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I've got some very light surface rust on my Savage 170 pump 30-30 and was thinking about getting it bead blasted and parkerized. Will this take care of things adequately? They said I could also Duracoat it after Parkerizing it for a few bucks more but I'm wondering if I need to do that also? I want to toughen it up so I can get many more years out of it.
 

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If you are considering reblueing be adviced that usually hurts the value of the gun. A rough original finish gun usually brings more than a refinished one. Clean her up and keep her oiled is my advice.
 
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