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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I spent about 3 hours tonight and only turned out 30 9mm rounds. Primers kept jamming or not feeding properly (lee pro 1000). Now the primer pin is stuck either to a primer or into the shell. The pin won't drop down and I'm not sure how to free it. I'm afraid to push to hard or hit from the top as to set off the primer. After trying for about 15 minutes I accidentally moved the handle. Now not only is the pin stuck, the round is charged.

What do I do?
 

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Not familiar with the 1000, but... Are you talking about the decapping pin? Were you decapping cases with live primers? In the future, just put them in a firearm, with no powder or bullet, and fire.

You can probably loosen the top nut on the decapping die to free the decap pin from the die, then work it from there. Call Lee customer service. Don't worry, nothing will happen before morning. If are worried spray some WD40 in the powder :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's the pin that pushes the primer in. On the Lee one stroke of the handle primes the cartridge, the next stroke moves the cartridge straight up and charges it.

I'm not worried about anything happening overnight. I'm worried about attempting to free it tomorrow. I'll probably unmount everything from my bench and take it onside. Then at least I can dump the powerder, still not sure how I will get the bottom primer pin out.
 

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Call Lee! In my experience they have been very helpful with loading problems. They have been known to even replace parts that we screw up w/o charge. In my reading pro 1000s are a bit finicky to start with but once you get on to it, it's smooth sailing ahead.
 

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I don't see how the primer pin can get stuck in a primed case,sounds like there wasn't a primer and you pushed the pin into the unprimed case go ahead and rotate the case around without seating a bullet and then check to see if there is a primer in the case,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not sure if these pictures help or not. One is the top view where you can see it is over the primer pin. The second is the bottom where hopefully you can see the pin is stuck up so I can not rotate the shell.

Thanks for al the help!
 

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Once you get things straightened out you might try priming separate from powder/bullet insertion. Any grain of powder that finds its way into the priming area will cause problems. If there is no powder present the problems go away.

Once primed, install the powder dispenser and finish the job.

You will find it a much more pleasant method of operation.

How long have you been using the Pro 1000?
I loaded between 30,000 and 40,000 rounds with one and found the separation of priming from powder to be the only way to go.

I have moved up to the Loadmaster and find it to be worth the extra cost. I still make two passes though.
 

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I have no experience with your machine, but based on its reputation, I would have to say you either have something assembled wrong or you have an operator error problem.

A phone call to Lee should get the problem solved, whatever it is.

I hope you get it solved quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I managed to get it apart. 2 primers had fed and got jammed. I then did as mentioned above and did a 2 step process. Made 75 rounds using this method, tomorrow is the big day and I'll see how they shoot.
 

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I managed to get it apart. 2 primers had fed and got jammed. I then did as mentioned above and did a 2 step process. Made 75 rounds using this method, tomorrow is the big day and I'll see how they shoot.
Following the 2 or even 3 step process you can still make a lot of ammo in a short time with the Pro 1000. The case feeder, especialy if you sprung for the $10 Collator probably doubles your production rate over one you have to place a case in each pull of the lever.

3 step is when I want the best ammo I can make. I punch the primer, size and clean prior to inserting new primers. Removing primers can be done as fast as you can cycle the lever.

Many people tell me you don't gain anything by cleaning primer pockets but I have had some experience that tells me otherwise.

Things will fall in place in a fairly short time and you will start enjoying the process.
 

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Cartridge loading tools are no different than any other tools you have in your shop.
You only have to use those you need at a point in time.

You can size and punch primers simultaneously, by using oversize or universal die, punch primer only or by removing the punch ,size only. Make the tools work for you not the reverse.

A progressive can be used as a single stage by installing one die at a time. If it has a case feeder you can operate in single stage mode faster.

You will overtime determine what works best for you.

Enjoy
 

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ok, maybe I can help

my dad has the pro 1000 and I have the loadmaster, both are great reloaders for the price, BUT the primer feed set up completely SUCKS on both, they are very tempermental more mental then anything. I have now got to the point with my lee that I de-prime all my rounds, then use a hand primer (i have the RCBS and it works great)

My dad, some how has his working he took his all apart and cleaned and de-burred the jagged plastic edges, I have completely removed my primer feed set up and have not had a prob since. But i do have to take the time to de-prime every case, but i can clean the primer pockets and make sure the hole is clear.
hope this helps. my next progressive will be either a dillon or a hornady lock n load
 

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I also have problems loading 9mm on the same press. When I load .40 on it is is smooth as silk and I can load real fast. The problem is that the same shell holder(the indexing portion that holds onto the brass) is the same for .40 and 9mm. Obviously .40 is a larger round, so the 9mm doesn't hold snugly in there. This makes the primer not align right since the case isn't exactly centered over the primer ram. It's very frustrating. Eventually you get the feel for all of the strokes and won't mess up as many primers. Best to have an auto-prime on hand for the times you do.
 
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