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Is it worth my time and money to send it to the Performance Center at S&W for a Master Revolver Action Package or am I going to see the results in just breaking it in?
 

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I just dropped an Apex kit in my 638 last week. It's well broken in but I'm looking for a lighter trigger and this was an experiment on my part. You'll get the same improvement with a set of Wolff springs and save 15 bucks or so. It helped but snubbies will never lend themselves to K frame or larger S&W trigger jobs. Personally, I find a quality smith in your area to do the work and forgo the Performance Center. I've got a Model 60 from the PF and I'll probably drop 100 bucks for a smith to do the job proper. I don't feel like they should stamp "PF" on it and it's still needs attention, but that's me.

If you do some work on it yourself, Midway sells a great little tool for $22. It's worth it IMO. Since I've got multiple j frames the investment made sense.
 

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The trigger does get better with use.
 
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Exercise caution with spring substitutions. Especially with J frames, a lighter hammer spring will reduce the trigger weight but it will also lighten the hammer striking force, so that's no something you want to do on a defensive weapon.

I second the motion to leave the job to a smith who's experienced with S&W wheelguns.
 

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I highly recommend the Apex trigger kit. Put one on my S&W airweight, and it made a world of difference. Still retains all the safey features of a double action revolver, but it's SO much easier to shoot.
 

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Is it worth my time and money to send it to the Performance Center at S&W for a Master Revolver Action Package or am I going to see the results in just breaking it in?
Its a fairly easy do it yourself job.....

Apex sell a kit for $25.95. Installation of this kit reduces the trigger pull weight of your centerfire J-Frame Smith & Wesson Revolver from over 12 lbs to 9lbs. The have a dis-assembly and assembly video on their web page.

I installed it on my 642 and it did lighten the trigger pull and also made it smoother.
https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid49.html
 

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Unless you are confident in your handyman skills (I'm not), your best bet is to find a good local gunsmith and let him work on it, as others have suggested. I have taken several revolvers to a local guy who really knows what he is doing and it has been money well-spent.
 

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To me doing trigger work is good if your shooting competition, but if you only shoot targets for practice I don't think trigger work is worth it. If you would ever have to use your pistol for self defense the pull could be gritty and you would never know it. My 2 cents worth.
 

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I ordered a Wolff shooter's pack spring set for my 442 years ago. While I had it apart I removed the internal lock flag, replaced the main and trigger return spring, and took a dremel with metal polish and polished all of the internal contacts. Made a WORLD of difference. I've put well over 1000 rounds through it since then with 100% reliability.

It is a super easy DIY...youtube videos out there show you exactly how to do it.
 

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Is it worth my time and money to send it to the Performance Center at S&W for a Master Revolver Action Package or am I going to see the results in just breaking it in?
I'd wait til it's broken in. You can also dry-fire it with snap-caps (unless it's ok to do it without - but find out first!). That'll smooth it out - see how it feels then. Why spend money when you may get the same result with simple use?

Keep in mind the problem having playing with your gun's trigger can cause if its used in a Self-Defense case too.... easy argument to paint you a highly knowledgeable expert in killing with handguns. Not the view of yourself you want in an SD case. Unlikely, but it's a consideration.....
 

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How much does the custom shop charge?
The Apex kit is cheap and easy. A little oil and a fine stone really helped smooth the trigger too. The 642 is so simple; just stay away from the sear. Save that for a professional. As far as reliability, I've not heard about problems with the Apex kit. I am very happy with mine.
 

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I kept on pulling the trigger till it felt better. I kept on pulling the trigger till I felt better. It gets better the more you use it and you get better at staging the trigger.
R
 

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I sent my wifes airweight to Bob Munden and he performed some great work making her pistol smooth however he recently passed away .

Just a side note many gun parts are what they call case hardened. This is applying a thin layer of carbon during a heating process leaving the outer material very hard. The thickness of case hardening varies with the process but can be one ten thousands of an inch so be very careful with polishing parts on a guns mechanism you can remove the case hardening very easily.
Bill
 

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I kept on pulling the trigger till it felt better. I kept on pulling the trigger till I felt better. It gets better the more you use it and you get better at staging the trigger.
R
My 442 trigger got a good bit better following the above process.
 

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Has anyone installed one of these spring kits IN A S&W 638? Or should I just break it in with use? I've noticed an improvement after a box or so of ammo but the pull is hard.
Being a reloader, I plan to shoot hundreds, if not thousands of low powered practice loads through this gun.
Maybe I should just shoot it for a while and see what happens. (We shoot bowling pins at my club.:danceban:)
Fun little gun, btw.
 

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Has anyone installed one of these spring kits IN A S&W 638? Or should I just break it in with use? I've noticed an improvement after a box or so of ammo but the pull is hard.
Being a reloader, I plan to shoot hundreds, if not thousands of low powered practice loads through this gun.
Maybe I should just shoot it for a while and see what happens. (We shoot bowling pins at my club.:danceban:)
Fun little gun, btw.
I installed a Wilson aping kit in mine in about 10 minuets. All you need is a screwdriver. Watch a couple youtube videos before you do it and you will be good to go. My trigger went from 12 to about 9 pounds.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
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