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WML (Weapon Mounted Light) for handguns can be a big plus on a home defense gun and I have had an experience or two to back that up.

But they are also very beneficial on a carry gun if you can tolerate the problems of carrying the larger package. If you can get by with it, carrying a WML on the gun AND carrying a separate handheld may be the optimal set up. If you are not justified in presenting your gun for lighting, then you can use your handheld. If you need to shoot you can use either light or both. If you have a WML on the gun and a handheld, you have a backup if one fails. You even have the option of removing the WML and using it as a handheld.

There are some significant tactical advantages of the WML. One is, as previously mentioned, a two-hand hold for shooting. Another is you can hold the gun with the WML on the threat or threat area with your shooting hand and have a free hand to call 911, open doors, etc. as the situation dictates.

The potential of using the two lights together is intriguing. With the two lights you could make it appear that there are two of you, or the two lights could be used to confuse and disorient the threat. You could hold the gun (and WML) on the threat or threat area and use the other light to signal, direct, check a different area, check for a safe place to step, etc. or use the two to blind two BGs.

I just haven’t warmed up to carrying the bulk of the gun and WML and being limited in holster selection that the mounted WML creates.

 

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... I use a Surefire Aviator as my "bump in the night" light. I also practice firing with my light in my off hand.

Just a heads up about the Aviator. My Projects Class tested 20 tactical lights and one way we tested them was a run down test. Of all the lights we tested, two failed miserably, Surefire L2 and "my" Aviator.

The failure mode is overheating after about 20 - 30 minutes into the test. The lights begin blinking (i.e. shutting off and on) and are so hot you can hardly hold them.

I talked to Surefire and they basically question the phenomenon but will take care of the problem if I will send the lights to them. When I mentioned this on another forum, somebody else said they experienced the problem on the L2 they tested.

So if you plan to use the A2 for its full 60 minutes, you may want to run it down once and see if it overheats like mine does.

 

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srfl,
I have the same 92G Vertec, X200, Mecgar 20 round mag setup you do. It is a good set up. The same mags also fit my Beretta Storm. If it weren't for that slide mounted decocker. I've broken the skin more than once on that thing racking the slide in a hurry.

Right now, I'm carrying a USPf 9mm, so unless I buy an adapter, I can't use my X200 with the USP. I may have to start doing what you do - 92G Vertec with 20 rounds as an over night weapon and the USP by day.

 

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Greymoor,
Unfortunately, or should that be fortunately, no other Xenon lamp based flashlight shut down or even got more than slightly warm.

What this leads me to believe, since the Aviator must use some electronics to drive the LEDs, that somehow it's the electronics that's causing the heat problem rather than the Xenon bulb.

 

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Hmmm, I wonder if Surefire have a fix for this. I would have to run my light to see if it overheats.

I'd sure like to know what it does. If it helps, you can buy Sanyo batteries from Botach for $1.00 apiece. So it would only cost about two bucks to find out.

You probably want to know before you really depend on it. If yours doesn't overheat then it's not a factor anymore. If it does...

I wonder if Surefire has a fix for it too. It could be a design problem that is not easily fixed, but if they can't fix it, I bet they would offer you a different light that's comparable or better.

If you don't mind running down two batteries, I'd really like to know if it overheats.

 

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That crossed my mind Ron - not just hot bulb but maybe too a poorly heat-sinked SCR or power tran'.

Yeah, it almost has to be something like that. It's interesting that the L2, a high power LED, and the A2, Xenon with three low power LEDs both overheat and they both have electronics in them.

OTOH, the Streamlight TL2 LED, TL3 LED, and the Inova LED have electronics also and they only get warm over the entire discharge time.

Actually, as I think about it, it seems more like inefficient power control that generates more heat than the heatsink/case can handle.