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First, let me say that I am not in any way suggesting, recommending, or encouraging anyone to modify any gun. If you don't know exactly how and what you're doing and what the issues are, your modifications could make your gun unsafe and unreliable. Some believe that gun mods can be used against you in a court of law. If someone gets hurt due to the mods you have made to your gun, you deserve for them to be used against you.

One personal, real life experience, if I may. I was talking to a guy in a gunshop. I don't remember how it came up, but he said the best thing you can do for your trigger on a G-34 is to put in a weaker striker spring. When I said that could cause problems, he said that he did that to his G-34 and had shot it over and over in competition without a single light primer strike. When I said, that's not the problem, the problem is the lighter striker spring will allow the trigger spring to pull the trigger rearward slightly and the trigger safety won't be able to engage when you release the trigger. If you drop it, it could discharge. It was a "you could hear a pin drop" moment. He was speechless. Clearly, he had no idea about that. He probably got the idea from his "buddies" and they didn't have a clue either. I let him soak that in a bit and then asked him something about a Beretta PX4 so he could speak again.

Gun mods can be dangerous - don't attempt them unless you really know what you're doing. If you want some mods done, let a competent gunsmith do them.

During a recent brain failure, I bought a G-34 (Tactical 9mm). I have heard so many claims about a “25 cent” trigger job that I decided to see for myself. I machined a plastic roller for my RCBS trigger scale that would fit the curvature of the Glock trigger so that I could consistently measure the pull weight. You’ll notice that my trigger pull weights appear to be high. The Europeans measure the trigger pull from the tip of the trigger. I figure our finger doesn’t pull the trigger from the tip so I’m actually measuring near the center of the trigger, which results in heavier, but I think, more realistic trigger pull weights.

Frankly, I had noticed that this particular stock set up felt rough and a bit heavy. So I measured the stock set up five times and got five measurements of 5-5/8 pounds. That would be the base line.

I only changed one thing at a time and took at least five measurements after each change.

The 25 cent trigger job reduced the pull by about 1/4 of a pound.

The surprise was replacing the FPB (firing pin block) spring with a reduced power spring. This dropped the trigger pull weight 1/4 pound! That really surprised me, in fact, I didn’t believe it so I put the stock FPB spring back in and re-measured. The trigger pull went right back up to 5-4/8 pounds.

I put the lighter FPB spring back in and made five more measurements. Sure enough the trigger pull dropped a consistent 1/4 pound again and I was satisfied the change was “real”.

Lightening a 5-5/8 pound trigger to just over 5 pounds sounds impressive perhaps, but that's only about a 10% change, but as I discovered, if feels like much more. The rough, long, draggy feel is gone and now it's a pretty smooth trigger.

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Sounds Good Tangle

Ditto: Don't "Tangle" with the guts of any firearm unless you understand how the firing system works and how the individual parts interact and affect the function of all of the other critical fire and safety parts.

Sounds like an easy and safe way to lighten a slightly heavy GLOCK pull...chaning out the FPB spring. That is simple enough.
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