Defensive Carry banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm kind of knocking around a few designs for a SD blade, please note that I did not say tactical, and was wondering if a few of you IET and/or Shivworks guys might pipe in with what you look for.

Right now I'm looking at a fairly standard drop-point blade but edge up, a handle set up for Hammer Grip/Pikal in the designed edge-in draw, but able to comfortably be held "upside down" in standard edge-out grips in a pinch (Hammer, Modified Filipino, Saber if you roll that way). Has a blade that is 2-7/8" long for maximum cross-jurisdictional legality, but it can easily be given a blade of up to 3-7/8" if you want one longer. Handle scales will be G10 "rounded skinny" to reduce the chances of the blade turning in your hand while you use it.

I went with a drop-point blade because the Modified Wharncliffe/Hornbill of other IE blades is harder to use for utility cutting in a pinch and weaker at the tip. Yes, this is a SD knife but I think that functionality in a pinch for whatever emergency-type uses of the knife before and/or after the actual SD event is important as well. Besides, it'll be a lot easier to grind this way as well.

A finger choil will be on one side so you can naturally tell what direction the blade is facing. Chiol at your fingers, the blade is towards you. Flat spine at your fingers, the edge is pointed away from you.

Comments? Anything to add?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
568 Posts
I'm kind of knocking around a few designs for a SD blade, please note that I did not say tactical, and was wondering if a few of you IET and/or Shivworks guys might pipe in with what you look for.

Right now I'm looking at a fairly standard drop-point blade but edge up, a handle set up for Hammer Grip/Pikal in the designed edge-in draw, but able to comfortably be held "upside down" in standard edge-out grips in a pinch (Hammer, Modified Filipino, Saber if you roll that way). Has a blade that is 2-7/8" long for maximum cross-jurisdictional legality, but it can easily be given a blade of up to 3-7/8" if you want one longer. Handle scales will be G10 "rounded skinny" to reduce the chances of the blade turning in your hand while you use it.

I went with a drop-point blade because the Modified Wharncliffe/Hornbill of other IE blades is harder to use for utility cutting in a pinch and weaker at the tip. Yes, this is a SD knife but I think that functionality in a pinch for whatever emergency-type uses of the knife before and/or after the actual SD event is important as well. Besides, it'll be a lot easier to grind this way as well.

A finger choil will be on one side so you can naturally tell what direction the blade is facing. Chiol at your fingers, the blade is towards you. Flat spine at your fingers, the edge is pointed away from you.

Comments? Anything to add?
Sounds like you're on the right track. The main thing I'm looking for, is a configuration that works for IET, but isn't limited to IET, if that makes any sense. I like a good, all around kind of blade.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,046 Posts
sounds like a tactical knife to me.... :rofl: Hey, it sounds interesting. Do you have any sketches you can post?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Sounds like you're on the right track. The main thing I'm looking for, is a configuration that works for IET, but isn't limited to IET, if that makes any sense. I like a good, all around kind of blade.
Pretty much my thoughts on this as well. I really like the look of the purpose-built Shivworks knives, as an example, but paying that kind of scratch for a knife that is basically worthless for anything else isn't exactly exciting to me.
The knives, strangely enough, have an overall blade profile similar to a Krein Micro Chef due to the spine being at the "bottom" of the blade with a standard drop point edge extending above it. I'm thinking that a half-length beveled false edge would make a nice touch with potential jimping being on the rest of the spine for those times you end up holding the knife "backwards" for regular knife tasks. I'll have to check with the maker to see how much he likes using files...*lol*

The hardest part, like it should be, is settling on a handle style. I have three or four that I have drawn out in the past but one similar to the Street Beat (relatively thin but tall for most of it's length) seems to be the best bet from what I'm thinking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
568 Posts
The hardest part, like it should be, is settling on a handle style. I have three or four that I have drawn out in the past but one similar to the Street Beat (relatively thin but tall for most of it's length) seems to be the best bet from what I'm thinking.
As you know, I'm an avid fan of the Street Beat. I'd say you can't go wrong with a handle inspired by it. I was a little leery of the polished micarta at first, but the overall shape just locks it into your hand.

I like a basically straight handle. Gives you the most versatility with your grip.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,046 Posts
I'm trying to get an idea of your design. How much different and in what areas to the Disciple from Shivworks?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
As you know, I'm an avid fan of the Street Beat. I'd say you can't go wrong with a handle inspired by it. I was a little leery of the polished micarta at first, but the overall shape just locks it into your hand.

I like a basically straight handle. Gives you the most versatility with your grip.
I hear you on the Micarta. It kind of bugged me at first as well. Of course, it works fantastic so it goes to show what I knew at the time.

The handle is straight with a slight ramping extending from the finger choil (about 1/8" over two inches of length) into the butt of the handle.

I'll try to find a scanner I can use tomorrow to post the short-bladed and long-bladed versions up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I'm trying to get an idea of your design. How much different and in what areas to the Disciple from Shivworks?

The blade is an upside-down drop point with a half-length false edge bevel rather than a modified Wharncliffe. Grip is straighter. Cost will probably be around 1/2 that of a Disciple.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,046 Posts
Sounds somewhat radical, but maybe I'm missing something. If you get an opportunity to post some sketches sometime, that would be cool.

What kind of steel are you looking at? BTW... I really like G10 handles. Very slip resistant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Sorry to make you guys wait for the sketches but a flu bug or whatever just hit me like a ton of bricks as I was leaving school. Felt just dandy all day when without any warning at all I suddenly got the call for "Bilge Pumps on Full!" from the Engine Room as I was crossing the parking lot to my car. Made it home with my kid from the sitters just fine, but it went like a crackhead trying to rob an IET after-party with a steak knife in short order afterwards.

They always say, "Both ends at once", but's never happened to me before today... :congrats:

In my current condition I can't risk swinging by my homie's place to use his scanner with his four kids. Sorry for the wait, y'all. :embarassed:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)


Drop point blade geometry with a false edge on the "bottom" and a 1-1/2" spine for a good working grip when the blade is "reversed". Lanyard holes seem popular enough for me to add one.

Steel would be 1/8" by 1" ATS34 (Japanese CM154 for all intents and purposes). G10 or Micarta scales to order.

Three versions to demonstrate the versatility of the options:
Top knife is 8-1/8" O/A with a 3-7/8" blade.

Middle knife is the one I started the thread about at 6-5/8" O/A with a 2-7/8" blade.

Bottom knife is 7-1/8" O/A with a 3-3/8" blade.

I could have gone with a slightly longer blade but figured that by keeping the 1/16" shorter you can reduce the effects of an officer or prosecutor trying to fudge things. I also extended the handle of the longest knife because I'm not comfortable with a knife of this size having a blade that is longer than the handle for leverage purposes.

These would not be the only options available for handle or blade lengths. These can truly be made to order. You call, we haul.

Please feel free to comment...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the interest. :smile:

Unfortunately the maker I was talking to has not made it back into the shop after a work-related hand injury and has yet to display any interest in returning to part-time knifemaking. I might be discussing some ideas with another maker shortly.

Also, the design has matured since the pictures above. I have modified the blade geometry further to enhance cutting ability for IET-type usage while tweaking the tip geometry to enhance penetration over the above design for those who prefer a point-driven Shivworks-type method.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,025 Posts
Late to this thread, but I, too, recommend the Spyderco Street Beat, the greatest little knife that I don't own yet, for a production blade. (I really do need to get a couple before they go away.)

I do love my Clinch Picks and Disciples, and Anso Custom Pikals, but they are really oriented for edge-in. I love my Spyderco Ronins, but they are not drop-points.

I know Martin Olexey, though I have not seen his more recent work. I believe him to be a perfectionist, honorable, and a true gentleman, so I bet his blades are good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Take your design and just go here

Classes

Build it yourself, your way, no compromise and learn from one of the world's greatest knife makers --Master Gil Hibben.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
That would be cool but I don't have an extra grand lying around plus airfare and car rental. Add that my designed knife would be a 2-7/8" bladed, 6-1/4" O/A knife with G10 scales from a 1" x 1/8" blank and I would hope to get two for the price of one, y'know? :wink:
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top