Both of the grips on Haywood's guns fill the area behind the triggerguard. this moves your grip down , but makes your trigger pull straight back. If you like your stock grips you can add a Tyler T Grip to do the same job.Mine are both ways. Stock grip for the pocket Hogue Grip for waist Band Carry and a lot of shooting.
With every snubby I've bought I've bought a bunch of different grips, until I found one that was "just right". Sounds like you need to do the same. The nifty thing about revolvers (vs. automatics) is that you can do a lot more about that.
What is your experience with DA revolvers prior to the 442, pinetree? The reason I ask is that DA revolvers can be awkward for a novice and the little snubbies even more so.
Optimal trigger pull will only be found in no take up no creep single action triggers on rifles and 1911's or other hammer fired single action guns and Ithaca shotguns.Echoing what others have said: I have long fingers and grips that leave the backstrap uncovered result in very short trigger reach, with a lot of finger inside the trigger guard, and a less than optimal trigger pull. As pictured below, the 342 on the right has boot style grips. The 642 on the left has a vintage set of Herrett Ace grips (which cover the backstrap) and a with a Tyler T-grip.
The 642 with the larger grips is more controllable than the 342. But, with the larger, longer grips it will no longer fit in a jeans pocket.
Awkward that the trigger reach is too short? If so a different grip can help. It's hard to tell by looking at the grip how much it will increase trigger reach. I have the Compac and Gripper (not Gripper Pro) both from Pachmayr. Although the Compac is smaller in grip length than the Gripper, the Compac increases trigger reach more than the Gripper.