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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am needing to purchase a K Frame size revolver for some upcoming security work. Is there anything comparable to the 686 that I should consider?

Also, any tips to help with learning that nasty first double action pull? Almost all my shooting experience is with automatics with much softer pulls. Are there any revolver triggers that are "softer" in double action than others?

What can I expect to pay for a used peice? Any signs of wear or misuse particular to the 686 model I should be looking for?

Thanks!

J
 

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The S&W 686 is actually an L frame revolver. Their K frames are slightly smaller, and would include the models 65, 66, 19, 13, etc.

The 686 has a good double action trigger. With some practice you can learn to shoot it well. A used 686 with 4 inch barrel should cost about $450 to $500. A comparable gun in another brand is the Ruger GP100, which usually is cheaper than the S&W.

I have two of the 686s, in 6 inch and 2.5 inch barrels.

 

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The 19 or 66 would be my choice... Summit Gunbrokers has a 4" model 19 for $395, it looks pretty nice...

Summit K Frames
 

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I am needing to purchase a K Frame size revolver for some upcoming security work. Is there anything comparable to the 686 that I should consider?

Also, any tips to help with learning that nasty first double action pull? Almost all my shooting experience is with automatics with much softer pulls. Are there any revolver triggers that are "softer" in double action than others?

What can I expect to pay for a used peice? Any signs of wear or misuse particular to the 686 model I should be looking for?

Thanks!

J
Not sure what you mean by "nasty first" double action pull, because all the pulls of a DA revolver are the same, unless the ratchet has a burr, or the ejector rod is bent. I also wonder what DA pistol you have used, because the only true DA autopistol I know with trigger pulls as sweet as a K-frame, is the SIG DAK system. Perhaps the autos you have handled are actually things like the Glock "safe-action" and various other pistols that partially cock the striker for you.

As already indicated, the 686 is built on the heavier L-frame. I believe K-frames to be notably easier to carry all day, compared to L-frames and their colleague, the Ruger GP100. Unless you need to carry magnum loads, I recommend the lighter K-frames, in .38 Special. I believe S&W discontinued its K-frame .357 magnum sixguns, largely because too many high-pressure, light-bullet magnums loads wore them out too quickly. Modern shooters favor these loads, rather than the old-school heavy-all-lead-bullet loads, so S&W felt it prudent to discontinue the old-school K-frame .357 sixguns. I could get more technical than this, but am not sure it is necessary here.

Perhaps you are confusing the LONGER double-action pull of a sixgun for NASTY. I like the longer-stroke DA weapons just fine, and favor them.
 

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Better than a 686?
Nasty trigger pull?
Have you ever fired a 686?
I have a 686+(3" barrel) and a GP100(6" barrel), night and day difference in the triggers and accuracy.
Rent and shoot a 686 and tell me if you don't love the trigger.
A long trigger pull can contribute to great target shooting if you get used to it and the trigger on a 686 is one of the best factory triggers I've ever found, I actually shoot the 686 more accurately in DA than SA, the Ruger GP100 is a bit gritty and my Model 36 is just plan nasty is DA, but great single action.
Try one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First off,

Thanks for correcting my knowledge guys. I mean by "nasty" pull is that first double action pull. I guess I want to tame that "flyer" on the first shot, which will only come with practice. The K frame I confused I guess with the L frame, as they are all listed together under medium frames on the SW website.

Off to rent a few in the next few weeks!

J
 

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My 686 (L-frame) trigger is very good... not quite as good as my Model 15-4 (K-frame) but close.

The older the gun generally the better (smoother) the trigger is in general.:yup:
 

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It sounds to me like you need a 7 shot 4" 686! Shoot it and the trigger will smooth out and this can be the only revolver you will ever need---unless you decide you need to go handgun hunting and require a bigger bang.
 

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S&W makes a K frame mod 67 in .38 spec. SS, adj sights, great gun.
 

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Guns America had several model 66's with 4" barrel of late manufacture, 2004 I think, for around 4$00-500.
 

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I want to clarify the first thing that came to my mind regarding the trigger. I noticed you said the nasty first shot. A DA revolver is going to continue to have a firm DA pull through all shots. Unlike a Semi auto which can be DA/SA that may have a DA first shot and the remainder being SA. Revolvers with an exposed hammer may be shot SA as well but is frowned upon for self defense.
 

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The K-Frame magnum revolvers are the best for concealed carry .357 Magnums in my view. They've all been unfortunately discontinued in favor of L-Frame .357 Magnums.

K-Frame .357 Magnums with fixed sights are represented by the Models 13 and 65. These two models have a cult following with their available 3-inch barrels and are also available in 4-inch length. The models with adjustable sights are the Models 19 and 66. They are available in the useful 2 1/2-inch barrel lengths along with 4-inch and 6-inch lengths.


"Revolvers with an exposed hammer may be shot SA as well but is frowned upon for self defense."

Presumably frowned on primarily on internet forums.

The proscription of utilizing the single action capability in a double action revolver is bunk. I am capable of shooting a revolver DA but if, in a self defense situation, I deem it necessary to cock the revolver in order to gain an accuracy advantage I will do so. Such revolvers were designed with with a single action feature for a reason and it has nothing to do with "sporting use."
 

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No doubt I whole heartedly agree. If I am being attacked and I feel a SA shot is going to give me the edge you can bet your bottom dollar that hammer will be cocked. As you mention the only place I have ever seen it being a negative is on the web but if you see it on the web it must be true.
 

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I forgot to mention I own a model 13 w/ 4" barrell. This gun has the nicest trigger I have ever fired. DA it is buttery smooth and in SA its crisp. This comboallows this to all so be my most accurate centerfire pistol.
 

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^+1 on the 4 inch model 13. :bier: The OP needs to put in the dry fire work and master the double action stroke. After some time on the trigger, groups will begin to shrink. Remember, firm grip and straight back on the trigger. Try setting a dime on top of the frame and rolling the trigger back as many times as you can before it falls. Good luck and stay safe on the new job. Small groups are nice, but emphasize that first shot, group of one if you like.
 

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Better than a 686?
Nasty trigger pull?
Have you ever fired a 686?
I have a 686+(3" barrel) and a GP100(6" barrel), night and day difference in the triggers and accuracy.
Rent and shoot a 686 and tell me if you don't love the trigger.
A long trigger pull can contribute to great target shooting if you get used to it and the trigger on a 686 is one of the best factory triggers I've ever found, I actually shoot the 686 more accurately in DA than SA, the Ruger GP100 is a bit gritty and my Model 36 is just plan nasty is DA, but great single action.
Try one.

Yeah I have to agree with this on the 686 trigger pull. I have a 4" model, very pleasant weapon to shoot in DA.
 

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As already mentioned, the 686 is a "L" frame. It is heavier than a "K"
but has some advantages, IMHO, over the "K" ( BTW, I have carried & still do, both ( L = LEO Duty & currently open) K (4") CC)
Advantage of the "L" comes about, if you use .357 mag. This frame was designed to handle .357 mag, after it was found that the "K" "showed some "problems" with .357 mag (esp. hotter loads)

I carry my 66 4" Reg. as my primary. Even though, I have put 1,000s of .357 mag rd.s through it, I never have had a prob. ( not = NO "hot Loads") It is, IMHO, a comfortable gun to carry.

As to "single action pull."
1. Yes it will take "practice". but I can & do, have NO prob.
2. S&W revolvers ( all IMHO, ) have the "smoothest action avail. "straight out of the box & get even better with use,
If you go the "Ruger" route, although great guns, their "trigger pull is "heavy" & IMHO, need some "tuning" by a good "smith"

Used ????

There are several things to look for ( wear ( lands & grooves) Timing etc. Since are not "knowledgeable about Revolvers, I would have any "used" one checked by a "smith"

Puffer
 
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