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Marlin 60W
Good Morning Everyone
I just picked up a used Marlin 60W for my fiance and was hoping someone knew how to disassemble it. Thanks.
I just picked up a used Marlin 60W for my fiance and was hoping someone knew how to disassemble it. Thanks.
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A1C - I did an article on this some ways back on THR - this is the content, which hopefully may help a bit - I have redone the pics to hopefully make them a bit clearer than before.
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Pics are reduced and compressed, to keep download time short .... .as a result, some losses inevitable - hopefully tho they will serve to illustrate what is needed.
To start (of course - check for clear - which includes removing tube mag rod too)-- just undo two screws ..... the trigger guard rear and the larger one on the forend 2" ahead of trigger guard. Don't bother with trigger guard front screw at all. Remove woodwork from rifle. Make sure action is cocked and hammer back.
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First .... having removed woodwork, here is the action .. with slide still locked back halfways. The trigger itself stays in the trigger guard.
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Now - same thing but viewed from below. Look carefully and you should see a white arrow top left ... this points to the plastic split pin that retains trigger group. Push this pin out, noting that just as it comes free, the trigger group will drop down a bit. Notice general crud - this one does need cleaned.!
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Pin has now been removed and rear of trigger group drops down .. control this to avoid it coming too far too soon.
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Once pin is out and rear dropped as in previous pic' .. the front of trigger group can be pulled rearward slightly ... to disengage its location. Note two small arrows ...... the right hand one points to engagement cross pin .. the left points to step at front of trigger group which goes over this pin.
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Now for the bolt. Move it slightly downward as shown ..... which gives some free space above the cocking handle. Move the handle up into that space and it should withdraw by pulling towards you.
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This shows handle removed .... and you'll notice how it is a sort of ''U'' shape, which fits over the bolt. It is normally retained of course when bolt is fully up in normal operating position.
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Just a further view to again show the bolt handle profile side-on.
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Now we can remove the bolt complete with recoil spring. In this pic it is almost out but still pressing against end of mag feed block. Try and keep spring and its guide reasonably straight to avoid spring buckling excessively in its middle.
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With care, continue to pull bolt free and allow spring to expand under control while keeping straight Then remove the assembly.
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From this point you can get down to cleaning. I don't suggest you strip any further. Using carb cleaner etc and compressed air . get all the crud out of the trigger group and the internal surfaces that bear on the bolt. The bolt itself will need some good cleaning also.
After crud is dealt with, relube sparingly (Militech or similar).... concentrating on slide contact areas. Too much lube is nothing more than a magnet for .22 powder granules!! Reassembly is essentially just a reverse process but again ... try not to buckle the recoil spring as you refit the bolt.
Hope this helps.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Pics are reduced and compressed, to keep download time short .... .as a result, some losses inevitable - hopefully tho they will serve to illustrate what is needed.
To start (of course - check for clear - which includes removing tube mag rod too)-- just undo two screws ..... the trigger guard rear and the larger one on the forend 2" ahead of trigger guard. Don't bother with trigger guard front screw at all. Remove woodwork from rifle. Make sure action is cocked and hammer back.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
First .... having removed woodwork, here is the action .. with slide still locked back halfways. The trigger itself stays in the trigger guard.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now - same thing but viewed from below. Look carefully and you should see a white arrow top left ... this points to the plastic split pin that retains trigger group. Push this pin out, noting that just as it comes free, the trigger group will drop down a bit. Notice general crud - this one does need cleaned.!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Pin has now been removed and rear of trigger group drops down .. control this to avoid it coming too far too soon.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Once pin is out and rear dropped as in previous pic' .. the front of trigger group can be pulled rearward slightly ... to disengage its location. Note two small arrows ...... the right hand one points to engagement cross pin .. the left points to step at front of trigger group which goes over this pin.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now for the bolt. Move it slightly downward as shown ..... which gives some free space above the cocking handle. Move the handle up into that space and it should withdraw by pulling towards you.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This shows handle removed .... and you'll notice how it is a sort of ''U'' shape, which fits over the bolt. It is normally retained of course when bolt is fully up in normal operating position.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Just a further view to again show the bolt handle profile side-on.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now we can remove the bolt complete with recoil spring. In this pic it is almost out but still pressing against end of mag feed block. Try and keep spring and its guide reasonably straight to avoid spring buckling excessively in its middle.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
With care, continue to pull bolt free and allow spring to expand under control while keeping straight Then remove the assembly.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From this point you can get down to cleaning. I don't suggest you strip any further. Using carb cleaner etc and compressed air . get all the crud out of the trigger group and the internal surfaces that bear on the bolt. The bolt itself will need some good cleaning also.
After crud is dealt with, relube sparingly (Militech or similar).... concentrating on slide contact areas. Too much lube is nothing more than a magnet for .22 powder granules!! Reassembly is essentially just a reverse process but again ... try not to buckle the recoil spring as you refit the bolt.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks Rocky- I read through their FAQ and missed that completely. I guess it wasjust one of those days for me. Chris thanks that's a great help. I think after I break it down myself and clean it I'll have the fiance read that and see if she can do it for herself.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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1,244 Posts
Okay, I followed your instructions Chris, wow was it a mess. Now I've run into a slight problem. After we cleaned all the gunk out and lubed it slightly we ran into a little problem. Test firing revealed a FTE and then a Failure to Feed at nearly every round. The only round that would eject properly was the last one in each magazine.
Now I've taken it apart again, done an inspection on it, can't seem to find anything broken or out of place. Cleaned it again and ran it through another functional check. Then as a test I tried running some rounds through by hand. And it worked. Only one FTE, and on inspection that round was slightly messed up.
I'm thinking bad recoil spring or maybe the ammo doesn't have enough punch to move the bolt back. I'm using CCI Blazers. I'll try to get some different ammo and try it again this week. Any other ideas?
Now I've taken it apart again, done an inspection on it, can't seem to find anything broken or out of place. Cleaned it again and ran it through another functional check. Then as a test I tried running some rounds through by hand. And it worked. Only one FTE, and on inspection that round was slightly messed up.
I'm thinking bad recoil spring or maybe the ammo doesn't have enough punch to move the bolt back. I'm using CCI Blazers. I'll try to get some different ammo and try it again this week. Any other ideas?
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I do think those guns run best on HV ammo - mine will do pretty good on bulk box feds but better on something like Fed Champion.
Your symptoms do not suggest a weak recoil spring - so, try some stronger medicine next. Check extractor claw too and its tension - tho manual feed/extract sounds OK. Check too that ejector is looking OK.
FTE is invariably gonna lead to FTF.
Your symptoms do not suggest a weak recoil spring - so, try some stronger medicine next. Check extractor claw too and its tension - tho manual feed/extract sounds OK. Check too that ejector is looking OK.
FTE is invariably gonna lead to FTF.
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1,244 Posts
Well I finally got around to trying the Marlin with some different ammo. Same result. I'll be cleaning it and giving it another look in just a bit.
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Hmm - so no dice with HV ammo?
Look real close at slide, well bolt face. Also check for chamber mouth - ensure no crusty crud still there that could compromize abutment of bolt to chamber. Check extractor claw closely too.
Let me know what if anything you find. Wish I could see it 1st hand.
Look real close at slide, well bolt face. Also check for chamber mouth - ensure no crusty crud still there that could compromize abutment of bolt to chamber. Check extractor claw closely too.
Let me know what if anything you find. Wish I could see it 1st hand.
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After working on the shotgun this weekend I was in the mood to clean some more guns so I cleaned my 1911 and decided to tackle the Marlin one more time. After letting some CLP sit on the parts I took a pipe cleaner to the corners and realized that I was still able to pull some gunk out of the cuts in the barrel where the extractor claws fit in. I let it soak a little longer while I went and found my jeweler's screwdrivers. I was able to clean a whole bunch of gunk and brass shavings out of there. I'm hoping to go shooting in a little bit. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Hopefully that will prove very useful.
The claw recess does get seriously gunked over time and seems you have done the necessary - powder residue, grease etc does coagulate to form a real nasty crud and of course if claw is prevented from fully recessing it can prejudice bolt closure and so problems.
Hope to hear this will be the cure.
The claw recess does get seriously gunked over time and seems you have done the necessary - powder residue, grease etc does coagulate to form a real nasty crud and of course if claw is prevented from fully recessing it can prejudice bolt closure and so problems.
Hope to hear this will be the cure.
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262 Posts
My dad has one of these back on the farm. I was going to do a complete teardown and clean it up, but chickened out when I saw all of the moving parts in there. Ended up using brake cleaner and an air hose, which got it pretty clean, and then a little lube. Not perfect, but way better than it was. I'll have to try it again with these pics...
IMHO, those little Marlin/Glenfield M60s are great little rifles.
IMHO, those little Marlin/Glenfield M60s are great little rifles.
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25,596 Posts
Don't be phased by the seeming number of parts duck - follow the pics and keep things in their group assemblies.
As most discover - the .22 crud does build up into quite tenacious layers and so the clean-up is way easier by the basic breakdown approach.
For areas where real stubborn crud seems built up - make a small scraper from a piece of silicon aluminum welding rod or similar - and sharpen end to be like a screwdriver. That can help in those areas around chamber mouth where it seems build-up can be worst.
As most discover - the .22 crud does build up into quite tenacious layers and so the clean-up is way easier by the basic breakdown approach.
For areas where real stubborn crud seems built up - make a small scraper from a piece of silicon aluminum welding rod or similar - and sharpen end to be like a screwdriver. That can help in those areas around chamber mouth where it seems build-up can be worst.
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