[Brushy Bill]

Does anyone know if there are still some recently released "no lock" S&W snubbies floating around out there?

I've seen some info here and there stating that S&W put some out lately, but can't seem to find a source.

Appreciate your time.

Regards,
Bill

 

[18DAI]

Yes, S&W is producing no lock 442's and 642's as well as a model 40 with grip safety.

Despite the rantings of the S&W apologists that S&W CAN'T produce no lock revolvers, or my favorite "These are just left over frames!!".

It is foolishness IMO, to use an IL equipped revolver for any serious purpose. I count on S&W's greed to keep these lock free revolvers in the line up. Regards 18DAI.

 

[jwhite75]

They are out there..just look on Gunbroker. I had to compromise when I bought my M&P 340. Because I specifically wanted the .357 capability. I havent had any problems with mine yet.

 

[razor02097]

They are out there..just look on Gunbroker. I had to compromise when I bought my M&P 340. Because I specifically wanted the .357 capability. I havent had any problems with mine yet.

+1

I have the lock but never use it.

 

[hellhound94]

I also have the lock on a Model 438 but I never use it and, in fact, don't even think about it. It's certainly not a show-stopper.

 

[NY27]

+1

I have the lock but never use it.

Just because you don't use it doesn't mean that it won't engage after enough rounds are fired through your gun. Go to the S&W forum and you will see complaints of this happening.

 

[razor02097]

Just because you don't use it doesn't mean that it won't engage after enough rounds are fired through your gun. Go to the S&W forum and you will see complaints of this happening.

I bought it used so I don't know the total mileage. I put well over 300 rounds of .38 spl and about 80 rounds of .357 mag though. No issues yet.

Just like anything else mechanical things can fail. Just cause some people have issues doesn't mean all will. I guess I'm lucky.

 

[Diddle]

It is my understanding that if you simply ignore the lock, don't use it etc.. There is no reason for concern. Right, wrong or whatever, I've gotten this answer from a number of people who should know. My 637 has a lock. Never touched it and have no reason to do so.

Merry Christmas

Craig

 

[Sportsterguy]

Seeing a 2.5" S&W 686 lock up with no help from the owner made me a hard core anti lock guy. 1 time could be your last if it happens when you need it the most.

You can still buy a used 686 pre lock for less money.

Do yourself a favor and buy a older no IL S&W. More reliable weapon and sends S&W a message.

Here is a good thread from the S&W Forum on a NEWER S&W.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/109281-crack-frame-642-1-a.html


Lock with the new models are just a few of the major problems with them. Locks engaging, cracked frames, barrels seperating............

Call me old school but I love the OLD Smiths! NONE of mine have had any of these problems. My only S&W revolver sent in for repair was my 6" model 57 .41 mag I shot loose and needed a new hand and shimmed up.

 

[jem102]

Have a 396 in .44 spec. Never tried the lock and no problems.

 

[DistantHorizon]

Do yourself a favor and buy a older no IL S&W. More reliable weapon and sends S&W a message.

It doesn't send them a very clear message. They don't know they missed out on a sale, let alone the reason for the lost sale. If enough gun buyers wrote letters to S&W, THAT would send a message.

But you're correct, I'd prefer a slightly used gun pre lock over a new lock model. I've been looking for the right pre-lock S&W snubby for a while. I found it several times, but I've only recently come to accept that certain models are just not available for the price they were a year ago. :frown:

 

[Sportsterguy]

It doesn't send them a very clear message. They don't know they missed out on a sale, let alone the reason for the lost sale. If enough gun buyers wrote letters to S&W, THAT would send a message.

But you're correct, I'd prefer a slightly used gun pre lock over a new lock model. I've been looking for the right pre-lock S&W snubby for a while. I found it several times, but I've only recently come to accept that certain models are just not available for the price they were a year ago. :frown:

By not buying their product is an indirect message. I wrote them myself several times to make my complaints on their IL revolvers.

I'm a S&W fanatic. Send me a PM and I'll try to hook you up.

VR/

SG

 

[Lewis128]

Couldn't a gunsmith fix the lock permanently?

 

[TX-JB]

Anyone can fix the lock permanently.... I did mine, it took about 10 minutes...

 

[pirate]

You don't fix it you remove it, the locking mechanism that is. I removed mine and it takes about 15-20 min. to remove it from the gun. Its easy even with basic mechanical/gunsmithing skills, nothing to it. It does not leave a hole in the frame all you are removing is the internal "flag" which is what disables (locks the hammer) the gun when locked.

While I did remove mine and the gun functions 100 percent reliably its really not needed and the so called cases of guns locking up under recoil are vastly exagerated. Another internet myth basically. But its so easy to remove why not do it, and its a good time to clean out the insides while you are at it. And again .....It DOES NOT leave an open hole... the weapon looks EXACTLY the same after the locking mechanism is removed.

Here's how step by step, great video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM

 

[trayzor]

I bought a no-lock 642 a year ago. They are available, just ask.

 

[mauser1959]

Sounds like most people do not put many round through their CC weapons. Maybe reloading changes that, but less than 300 hundred rounds sounds like the weapon is not even broke in yet. It is admittedly true that I do not own a Smith that has the lock, but that is mostly due to ascetics, the cylinder release on the guns that have locks look weird to me.

 

[NY27]

I bought it used so I don't know the total mileage. I put well over 300 rounds of .38 spl and about 80 rounds of .357 mag though. No issues yet.

Just like anything else mechanical things can fail. Just cause some people have issues doesn't mean all will. I guess I'm lucky.

I'm glad that you haven't had any issues. I had a 340 PD that I loved. But, I couldn't get mind head around the IL issues that I read about. So I got rid of it.

It was a comfy little handgun to carry. I still have a 640 and a 60 with no lock, but I miss the weight of the 340 (12oz).

Good luck with yours.

 

[wmhawth]

Anyone can fix the lock permanently.... I did mine, it took about 10 minutes...

I did mine too. Probably took me 15 minutes. I wouldn't let the internal lock stop me from buying a new S&W. That being said, I do consider the lock to be a useless bit of gadgetry.

 

[Sportsterguy]

You don't fix it you remove it, the locking mechanism that is. I removed mine and it takes about 15-20 min. to remove it from the gun. Its easy even with basic mechanical/gunsmithing skills, nothing to it. It does not leave a hole in the frame all you are removing is the internal "flag" which is what disables (locks the hammer) the gun when locked.

While I did remove mine and the gun functions 100 percent reliably its really not needed and the so called cases of guns locking up under recoil are vastly exagerated. Another internet myth basically. But its so easy to remove why not do it, and its a good time to clean out the insides while you are at it. And again .....It DOES NOT leave an open hole... the weapon looks EXACTLY the same after the locking mechanism is removed.

Here's how step by step, great video.
YouTube - S&W Internal Lock Removal

Well I saw the 686 mythically lock up on my friends 686 from about 5' away. It is not a myth! They can and do lock up on their own.

If folks had faith in them why do many folks remove the lock and buy the plug to fill the hole?

Here is another thread concerning the lock and plug. It does make the revolver more reliable and covers the BU hole.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/112661-plug-thread.html

No disrespect but it's S&W's way of CTA. The best safety is between one's 2 ears.

JMO