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Discussion Starter #1
I was looking at stuff in the gun shop (my favorite place these days) and saw some .38 "shotshell"

Didn't think to ask while I was there, but can I use it safely in my S&W 642 ?

Otherwise, I may just have to get one of those derringers as my BUG just because.....

Thanks
 

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Any revo will fire the shotshell ammo but that stuff is pretty much ''snake'' ammo as against real defensive stuff.

Shot size is generally quite small - #12 in .22 shotshells and in 38 - not sure but probably still somewhere around #8 - #6 as max I'd expect. Strictly short range.
 

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Some of the "Shotshell" also has a plastic sabot to prevent barrel damage or leading. If you use this stuff - make sure it's the sabot style.

The "old style" just had a crimped end that held the shot in, but the shot damaged the barrel and also led to excessive lead accumulations in the barrel. I truly don't know if that old style stuff is even made anymore.
 

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Everybody should buy them at least once just because they are fun to goof around with. :yup:

They are honestly not very effective for anything as they are very anemic and highly underpowered.

Please don't even think that they would be useful for any serious self~defense purposes because they sure are not.
 

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QKShooter said:
Please don't even think that they would be useful for any serious self~defense purposes because they sure are not.
That is so true. You run the risk of seriously irritating a BG if you blast him with one of these.

Many years ago, a gun magazine writer (don't recall the magazine) who did a "Q&A" column actually recommended Speer .38 Special shotshells for self defense. His recipe was shotshells for the first two rounds in the cylinder, followed by four rounds of full power ammo. I knew an LEO who followed this advice.:rolleyes:
 

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I do have to admit that they do a number on snakes at close (15' or less) ranges. That is if your using a 38 or larger.

Steve
 

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the CCI 38's are loaded with 9's (1/4oz I think), I usually carry one in the LAST pipe in my Taurus 85UL which is my fishing/hunting partner. That way if I need to shoot a vermin or in-season bunny, I can just rotate the cylinder. Although the .45 shotshells pattern the best in my experience, especially reloads.
 

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I shot a 5+' water mocassin with a 38spl cci shot shell out of a 4" S&W model 10 at about 20 ft and that sucker lifted it's head and looked at me as if to say "is that all you've got?". The followup shot with a 148gr HBWC wiped that look off his face. :yup:
 

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HighVelocity said:
I shot a 5+' water mocassin with a 38spl cci shot shell out of a 4" S&W model 10 at about 20 ft and that sucker lifted it's head and looked at me as if to say "is that all you've got?". The followup shot with a 148gr HBWC wiped that look off his face. :yup:
:haha: :rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks

I appreciate the input. I picked up a box, just to try 'em out this weekend at the range. Maybe will be able to use them when we are in the woods.

As for wiping out the smile...I would have guessed it wiped out his face ;)
 

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The problem with it is that your pistol, and most pistols for that matter have rifled barrels which impart spin to whatever is pushed through it by the expanding gasses of the powder charge.

The effect that this has on shotshells is that the shot expands in all directions as it leaves the barrel, due to the size of this shot, the one or two pieces that hit the target may have little or no effect.

I experimented with .38 shotshells a couple years ago and fired them through a "tunnel" I made by joining two plastic 5 gallon buckets together and cutting out one of the bottoms (essentially making one 10 gallon bucket). The handgun I was using was my 4" S&W 686.

I fired one shotshell toward the center of the bucket. 80 to 85% of the shot impacted on the sides of the tunnel while the shot that hit the intact end of the bucket was mostly spread toward the outer edges, the plastic cup that holds the shot exploded as soon as it left the barrel as evidenced by pieces of it embedded in the sides of the tunnel. only three pieces of shot hit near the point of aim (actually within a 3 inch circle).

For snakes you would be best to use a smoothbore like a real shotgun, or you could buy a cheap 38 with a shotout barrel or have someone bore out the rifling and use that just for snakes (there may be some legal problems with the last option).

After I finished shooting the whole package I never bought any more. I carry a .410 shotgun and a .45Colt when I think I will encounter snakes.
 

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I remember reading in a book about snakes a few years ago that pit vipers (like Rattlesnakes) would strike at a moving bullet because they can "see" infrared radiation (heat) and are fast enough to do it. Don't know if it is true - any herpetologists in the house?
 

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AutoFan said:
I remember reading in a book about snakes a few years ago that pit vipers (like Rattlesnakes) would strike at a moving bullet because they can "see" infrared radiation (heat) and are fast enough to do it. Don't know if it is true - any herpetologists in the house?
The last time I used a 410 on one, it didn't strike. Of course, that was at about 10 feet. RnR used a .380 on one a couple of months ago - any input RnR?
 

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1st Post! Hello everyone.

Get several big cardboard boxs, open them up and set them at 5ft,10ft, 15ft, etc. shoot at each one and you will get an fell for the pattern.

Pistol and rifle . You will find 10 ft, 15 ft max is the useful range
 

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I never used the .38's but I once emptied 6 .22 shot shells into a Great Basin Rattler and just pissed him off! Yes, he was striking at the shot! Ended up using a stinger to shoot him in the head, that finally ended it. :ahhhhh:
 

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Fun stuff but not much practicality for defensive handgun
 

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Navgo -

 
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