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First of all, I have NO stock or interest in either of these companies at all. None. My only motive in sharing this is to help honest Americans protect themselves and the ones they love.
I just read the thread of the man who's wife and baby are living in a home that has been "tried" on two occasions while he is working the night shift. I sent him this info personally as well as my post to him, but thought all of us should have this information.
I have used these two products in combination with absolutely amazing results. I'm talking about guys giving up trying to break in a test door.
Please consider these two easy do-it-yourself security measures for all your doors. They will make coming in through the chimney an easier option than the door. The only downside to these upgrades is that the fire department will have hell getting in as well if needed!
Here are the two sites. I think they speak for themselves.
Be Safe.
#1 Home of STRIKEMASTER II Pro Door Frame Reinforcement. Keep your door from being kicked in.
#2 Door security Bar ***
 

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Thanks for the link on the Strikemaster. I'd saved the link before, but then lost it.
 

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Caution in Case of Fire

I caution against the door security bar. Don't block your door in case you have to get out the door fast.:hand1:
The Strikemaster is :hand10:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I caution against the door security bar. Don't block your door in case you have to get out the door fast.:hand1:
The Strikemaster is :hand10:
No caution needed. I have them. You barely kick the bottom (of the bar from the inside) and they fall to the ground. NO time lost at all. Give it a try, it really works. Without the bar, the plate gives way after 7 or 8 strong kicks from a 250 pound man. WITH the bar, "Good Luck Chuck". You could take your AR-15 apart, clean it, assemble it, load the mag, chamber a round, put new night sights on your Glock for back up, pour a scotch, scratch your ass, yawn, and then,,,, MAYBE, the perp would be making it through the door. Just in time for the big bang finale! However, most men have never tried to kick something full force 30 to 40 times. Try it! Most run out of gas long before the door does. I'm just sayin, if you want the kick burglar to give up rather than get in, this combo is really awesome.
 

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Thanks for all these links! I will be making purchases soon!
 

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Thanks for the info, the strikemaster looks like a good set-up...
 

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No caution needed. I have them. You barely kick the bottom (of the bar from the inside) and they fall to the ground. NO time lost at all. Give it a try, it really works. Without the bar, the plate gives way after 7 or 8 strong kicks from a 250 pound man. WITH the bar, "Good Luck Chuck". You could take your AR-15 apart, clean it, assemble it, load the mag, chamber a round, put new night sights on your Glock for back up, pour a scotch, scratch your ass, yawn, and then,,,, MAYBE, the perp would be making it through the door. Just in time for the big bang finale! However, most men have never tried to kick something full force 30 to 40 times. Try it! Most run out of gas long before the door does. I'm just sayin, if you want the kick burglar to give up rather than get in, this combo is really awesome.
:hand10: I love your description! :rofl:

Btw... I really like the Ultimate Lock bump resistant dead bolt. Especially the night guard "double lock" feature which prevents any key from being used including the key for that lock.

Some good products there.
 

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I forwarded this on to a builder friend
 

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I've been slowly replacing all of the hollow core doors in my house with solid wood doors and over the weekend added an enlarged strike plate to my bedroom door. Just trying to make my home more secure. I'd like to do that Strikemaster on my front door. I have 2 additional thoughts to add to this thread.

1) If you beef up the striker side of the door, consider also beefing up the hinge side as well with some longer screws so that it doesn't become the weak point.

2) Once you have hardened your door frames, take a good hard look at your house and find the next easiest point of entry a badguy might use. In my case, hardening my front door is hardly worth the effort due to the large window next to the door....
 

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Not to say I don't like these products or ideas, but I have too many other points of entry. If a BG is willing to kick in my door, then he would also be willing to smash a window. I have 5 ground level glass windows, a rear sliding glass door and a set of glass-paned double doors for my basement entry.

I'm not one to say I don't want to spend the money to secure all points of entry, however I can't afford to do it. Damn I hate wanting to be prepared for when the SHTF, especially, all the possible ways it could happen.

Anyone know if any of those old missile silos are still available for sale? I remember seeing an episode of extreme homes (or something like that) where I guy was living in one he converted to a comfortable living place.
 

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So what works on a trailer/manufactured home door? They aren't as structurally sound as a stick built home. The interface between door/frame/wall/floor is a bit inferior.
 

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Good info here. Thanks for the links!

At the risk of a slight thread-jack, what are people's opinion on keyless (combination based) deadbolts? I have been thinking about putting one on my front door...
 

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for the windows

Safety and Security Window Films for Commercial Applications

I just quickly googled this, there are more than a few options.

the concept is to install a CLEAR film that can be cut to fit any window and it makes it relatively shatter proof. Sort of like windshield glass. It will still break but will stay in place. It is used for hurricane damage prevention and helps to increase the R value of the window too. Most will still allow normal operation of the window as well.
 

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I had my garage broke into at one of my other houses I had.,.. I built something similar to the strikemaster,.. They did come back and couldn't get in that door again, but they busted the bottom of the garage door instead,... :-(
 

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Not to say I don't like these products or ideas, but I have too many other points of entry. If a BG is willing to kick in my door, then he would also be willing to smash a window. I have 5 ground level glass windows, a rear sliding glass door and a set of glass-paned double doors for my basement entry.

I'm not one to say I don't want to spend the money to secure all points of entry, however I can't afford to do it. Damn I hate wanting to be prepared for when the SHTF, especially, all the possible ways it could happen.

Anyone know if any of those old missile silos are still available for sale? I remember seeing an episode of extreme homes (or something like that) where I guy was living in one he converted to a comfortable living place.
Yep.. or an underground bunker,.. When you have windows, it is easy to break them to get in,. Out here you see allot of bar's on the windows, but they look like a jail and if you had a fire,.. Well I just don't think that would be a good thing,.. I know some have pin's you can take out to open the bar's from the inside, but would you think about that in the middle of the night when your house is filled with smoke???
 

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Not to say I don't like these products or ideas, but I have too many other points of entry. If a BG is willing to kick in my door, then he would also be willing to smash a window. I have 5 ground level glass windows, a rear sliding glass door and a set of glass-paned double doors for my basement entry.

I'm not one to say I don't want to spend the money to secure all points of entry, however I can't afford to do it. Damn I hate wanting to be prepared for when the SHTF, especially, all the possible ways it could happen.

Anyone know if any of those old missile silos are still available for sale? I remember seeing an episode of extreme homes (or something like that) where I guy was living in one he converted to a comfortable living place.
What you do is prioritize your upgrades as you can afford to.

If you evaluate and harden the first and most likely point of entry and then continue to upgrade as you can afford to.

What usually happens is that if the bad guy fails to get into the first one or two "usual" points of entry... he will more than likely break off and look for another target house altogether. He has already expended too much time and energy failing to gain access to your house, he will likely move on down the road.

The more exposure they have on the outside attempting to gain access, the more likely for bad things to happen to them or they get caught.

When it comes to hardening your castle, very few people can afford to go out and spare no expense to get it all done in one shot.

So you have to evaluate and prioritize which points of entry you want to harden first, and then slowly expand out as you can afford to do so.

Hardening your castle should be an "ongoing process", not something most people can afford to do in one single massive upgrade. For example, you may want to invest in some enhanced exterior lighting with motion sensors before you spend money on the video surveillance system. Likewise you may want to improve the quality of your door frame and locks before getting the outside lighting or video system. But it should be based on how you have evaluated your immediate needs first.

It is foolish to have the attitude that "I can't afford to harden every point of possible entry, therefore I'll do nothing."

If you can only afford to harden one door or one window a year, then so be it. You'll be ahead of the game compared to those who have a total sheep mentality.

Anyway, just my opinion on how you can approach things systematically. It may not work or be useful for everybody.
 

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When you have windows, it is easy to break them to get in,. Out here you see allot of bar's on the windows, but they look like a jail and if you had a fire,.. Well I just don't think that would be a good thing,.. I know some have pin's you can take out to open the bar's from the inside, but would you think about that in the middle of the night when your house is filled with smoke???
Actually, Yes, you more than likely will be able to think about it in the middle of the night with house filled with smoke if you practice EDITH

The fire service has been encouraging EDITH for decades.

By the way... EDITH isn't your crazy old aunt who visits on holidays.

EDITH = Escape Drills In The Home!

Just like the adage that "You Fight How You Train," the same applies to escaping a house fire in the middle of the night.

You should not only have an action plan, like everyone meet at a designated point once outside the house for accountability, but you should "practice" that action plan regularly. Once a year... twice a year...

People who invest in "escape ladders" for people who sleep on second or third floors should also train and practice using them.
 

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Bark'n

I really do value your opinion and enjoy reading your posts and have gained a lot of valuable infrmation from them.

However, I am inclined to disagree with you here. My feeling is that if the entire thing cannot be made secure, then there is no point in securing a single point or two. This might be different for me because where I live, it is an isolated location where a BG that decided to break in would have the time and privacy neaded to try an alternate entry point, should the first one he tried fail. If I lived in the suburbs with lots of neighbors that could easily see my house and hear whats happening around it, I would agree with you.

I guess my thought is that if I spend $$$ to secure many positions, but leave one that a BG gets through, well I just wasted all the $$$. Not to say I will not try to save it all up for a major purchase some day either.

Of course my other reasoning is that I want my "just in case" plan to be more mobile. That way if the SHTF in a really big way, I can get the hell out of Dodge without leaving behind a big investment... (not that mortgage is not a big investment, but my extra $$$ I want to spend on SD items that can come with me.
 
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