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Discussion Starter #62
Do you plan on doing a "formal" barrel break-in, or just going to shoot it?

Chuck
For breaking in barrels, I generally follow whatever instructions the manufacturer recommends, the following is from the WOA website:

HOW SHOULD I BREAK IN MY BARREL?

I suspect that more barrels have been damaged than helped by "breaking in". Barrel makers take a lot of care to get a uniform finish on the inside of a barrel. Barrels are lapped not so that they will be smooth, but so that the finish and dimensions will be uniform over the entire barrel. When you use an abrasive cleaning compound you will change the finish on the inside of the barrel. Since some areas of the barrel are going to be protected by copper that you are trying to remove, and others areas are not, the surface finish is no longer going to be uniform. Since I got a bore scope I have backed off on my use of abrasive bore cleaners. I use them, but not nearly as aggressively, particularly on a new barrel.

My personal break in procedure is to take a new upper to the range and zero the front sight and shoot a group or two. This will take about 15-20 rounds. I then bring it back to the shop and clean it good with shooters and a good quality brush. I check it with a bore scope, but generally very little copper fouling is present. Depending on how it looks I may hit the throat lightly with some JB. That's it, it is now broken in.

This is for all for good quality hand lapped barrels. I will get a little more aggressive with mass produced barrels.

For general cleaning and barrel maintenance we use Hoppes #9 for cleaning, Break Free CLP for lube, and only use Dewey rods.
https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/resources/faq.html#break

I shot about 20-30 rounds the other day, took it home and cleaned it, so I guess I will just keep shooting it.
 
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I am simple what i do not NEED i will NOT have on my ar-15...keeps it simple, effective and reliable. I see Ar-15 builds that makes my toes curl, with crap on it the operator really never uses. BUT it's cool to show it to the world, that i put a 600usd laser light on there just for kicks. Or with a lame excuse "Well what if" scenario's pop up as an answer. Each to their own...
 

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Here's a purpose built AR.

Its built NOT to be a short barreled rifle. Since it uses a "bladed stock" it is classed as a pistol by the BATFE same as the Sig Arm Brace.

Its a .45 ACP that takes Glock magazines and it works quite well. It will be shot suppressed most of its life and is shown with one on it. The barrel is 6" long and its using an Eotech mount. This one has the DOLOS quick detachable barrel system so that its a compact package when it broken down.



 

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^^Awesome^^
 

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My black guns are not purpose built, they are purpose purchased. They are stock except for a Timney trigger for the AR-10 and the optics.

I subscribe to the KISS principle, keep it stupid simple.

Black Guns Matter (1024x768) (2017_01_22 17_26_42 UTC).jpg
 
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I'm working on a putting together a "purpose built" AR now.

After 3 months and $1050 I've almost got the upper completed (minus optic), still need a muzzle device and BUIS. Like any "custom/semi-custom" gun, since it's my idea of "perfect' I'll never see my money back, but it's been a fun project so far. The time spent researching and reading reviews has been enjoyable. Hopefully will have the whole carbine completed by coyote season.

Chuck
 

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I'll try to get some pictures shortly. I like the balance on the upper, although it is slightly more front end heavy than my 14.5" barrel (naturally). This one is obviously build for precision shooting, as opposed to something like HD use.

Build so far:

Spikes "Punisher" lower
BCM LPK/gunfighter grip
Geissele G2S-E 2 stage enhanced trigger
Luth AR MBA stock
WOA SPR upper, rifle length gas system, 18" SS barrel, 1:8 twist, Wylde chamber. WOA BCG & CH
Vortex 2.5-10x HS-LR FFP scope in a Burris PEPR mount.

Only things left to do are add an extended charging handle, and swap out the muzzle device for something other than an A2 birdcage. And shoot it obviously, which will probably happen before the other changes are made.
Is the Vortex a big improvement in lesser muzzle flash over the old birdcage flash hider? Also general question for you AR builders; Do you use a head space/ go/no go gauge? I like the idea of a 45 acp carbine. Thanx
 

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Just me, but I check headspace.

Takes all of about 10 minutes with a $25 gauge and the right tools. There's a couple guys here at work putting together ARs that don't bother and none have ever had an issue (probably the majority of builders too), but I figure it's my face next to the receiver not theirs.

For a muzzle device I've been using a Griffin Armament "Flash Comp" which is sort of a mix of both worlds compensating and flash reduction. It does both pretty well and I used one in a carbine class this spring and the guys R & L didn't have any issues unlike a couple of the other compensators on the line.

https://www.griffinarmament.com/M4SD-5-56-Flash-Comp-1-2x28-p/xhp556fc.htm

Chuck
 

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Also general question for you AR builders; Do you use a head space/ go/no go gauge? I like the idea of a 45 acp carbine. Thanx
I've checked a bunch of them. It's hard to say because there is no "feel" to gaging it like there would be on a bolt action where you can gently lower the bolt. On an AR, if the bolt closes it's really all you can tell about it. The headspace is built into the barrel extension and I have yet to see one that was off.

Headspace guages used to be 25 bucks but now they are 30-35 bucks and I've seen some at 40.00. Reamers have gone up too.
 

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I've checked a bunch of them. It's hard to say because there is no "feel" to gaging it like there would be on a bolt action where you can gently lower the bolt. On an AR, if the bolt closes it's really all you can tell about it. The headspace is built into the barrel extension and I have yet to see one that was off.

Headspace guages used to be 25 bucks but now they are 30-35 bucks and I've seen some at 40.00. Reamers have gone up too.
The one I use as a final test is the Colt Field Gauge for 5.56:

Colt 5.56 Headspace Gauge : BROWNELLS 5.56MM MAXIMUM HEADSPACE GAUGE | Brownells

Factory Specified Size Measures M16/AR-15 Maximum Headspace Made to the Colt factory's special dimensions for M16/AR-15 rifles. It measures the maximum factory acceptable headspace; an essential check on guns that have seen extensive service or have been rebarreled.
It still runs $25.05.

IAW Brownell's Tech:

the Field gauge is used to determine if the rifle is still serviceable and is safe to fire. Slightly longer than a No-Go gauge, the Field gauge is used to measure the absolute maximum allowable, safe chamber headspace. If the bolt closes on a No-Go gauge, the Field gauge is used for an additional check. If the bolt then closes on the Field gauge, the rifle is considered unsafe to shoot, and you’ll have to have the barrel set back and re-chambered. It depends on application. This is used to check if safe to fire, but the GO and NO GO is a better choice for most applications beyond checking a used rifle to determine if safe and able to be kept in service.
Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #75
The vortex is a scope.

For muzzle flash, the standard A2 does a pretty good job. I have used "Daniels Defense Superior Suppression Devices" on a few builds, and I like them as well. It is supposed to have reduced muzzle flash & help with reducing muzzle rise. I haven't had a chance to scientifically test those claims, but I do feel like my hammer pairs during 3 gun have gotten a bit tighter since putting one on my mock dissipator (which is what I shoot in matches). It could all be in my head though.

I recently picked up a "flash can" style muzzle device for my AR pistol, so I am going to compare that against the linear comp I have been running, and see what I prefer.
 

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Factory Specified Size Measures M16/AR-15 Maximum Headspace Made to the Colt factory's special dimensions for M16/AR-15 rifles. It measures the maximum factory acceptable headspace; an essential check on guns that have seen extensive service or have been rebarreled.
I see a lot of people using Field gages.

From what I understand, they were used by military armorers in a time when they needed every available rifle that could shoot. For maximum accuracy, I use only the "go" gage as a field gage is way too long.
 

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I see a lot of people using Field gages.

From what I understand, they were used by military armorers in a time when they needed every available rifle that could shoot. For maximum accuracy, I use only the "go" gage as a field gage is way too long.
Agreed, the "Field Gauge" is the final safety check as quite a few 5.56 and Wylde chambered guns will close on a standard N0-Go gauge and still be considered "safe" to fire. I've got one now I'm working on that failed a .223 No-Go gauge, but passed a Field Gauge. After correspondence with the bolt manufacturer and sending him gauge results, they sent me a new bolt that passes both.

Chuck
 
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