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Where to put the safe?

  • Garage will be fine as long as no humidity

    Votes: 18 27.7%
  • Find a way and figure it out to bring it to your room upstairs.

    Votes: 47 72.3%
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Second story wooden flooring can be solidified. We placed a fiberglass floor panel like used to set outside a/c units on in a closet floor of a friends second story apartment. This spread the weight of the safe and future contents (he was too broke after buying the safe to buy any more guns) out over 25 sq feet. even a 1200 lbs safe would only have a pressure of 48 lbs psf which is less than an adult would stress a floor in walking on it.

Also a parking pad used under the wheels of a motor home works even better but way more costly.

Give me a 20 foot logging chain and I can use my truck to snatch your bolted down safe totally out of your garage. It would take several people to move a decent size safe loaded with stuff like ammo and guns from an upstairs area.
 

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Put it up stairs. Rent a motorized moving dolly and get a buddy to help you. The motorized dolly does most of the work for you, but it's good to have a friend that can help you keep it balanced. My neighbor and I used one to move a 760# safe into my basement.
 

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Guess it depends on why you want a safe.

For me, its the desire to keep smash and grab burgulars, often kids, from stealing my guns. Also to keep visitors and my daughters friends ( now grown) from knowing my inventory or accessing my guns. Finally, its the hassle of replacing what I have, even if my homeowners rider covers the value.

I agree that the garage can be inherently more risky than indoors. I know of more than a few times in many years of home ownership where someone left the garage door open all night, or for a local trip. So no need to breakin to access an in home or in garage safe under those conditions, but possibly harder for me to hear someone tearing open my safe in the garage in the middle of the night than a safe in my house.

My safe is in my office on the first floor. I estimate it to be 500-700 # loaded, and we have a slab with no basement. I would find it hard to believe any modern home is unable to support #1200-1500 lbs, that is less than an average birthday party with people and furniture. So the weight shouldn't be a major issue though you may need 2-3 pp to slide the empty safe up the stairs flat on its back.

Misdirection is a good idea for best security. Locate a strong safe in a non obvious location where its difficult to gain access to the sides and back. The longer it takes to open, the less chance of it being removed or stolen.

Install a 2nd safe in a more easily detectable location that has a few items of lesser value such as a basic shotgun, 10/22, or even some non working boat anchor weapons. A thief in a hurry may not look any farther.
 

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The garage wouldn't be my first choice but people leave their $100K+ cars in the garage all the time without issues so it's not an unreasonable choice. I would take extra effort to secure it down very well to avoid someone with a truck hooking a heavy duty chain to the safe and pulling it free and chucking it in the bed.
 

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NO WAY would I put that in a garage. ..... not even a question. Upstairs in the closet or the room. Sorry to say it, but whoever telling you that are idiots and don't know how easy that is to pick up , haul off , or break in to.

Then throw in the changing temperatures, possible condensation, etc. that can develop due to being in the garage. Nope, not me.
 

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We don't have a choice. No place in the house (condo) to put our safe. But we have a storage closet at the back of the garage and the safe is against the back wall of that closet with just a few inches of space to the walls on either side, so no way to tip it over or get a crowbar into the door frame. Not happy about the temperature fluctuations from mid sumer heat to freezing winter. We will have to remember to take the guns out that we want to take to the indoor range an hour or so before leaving in the winter to warm them up a bit. Just the garage door itself and the one door from the porch to the garage and that door has an alarm module on it.

You have to do the best you can do with what is available.
 

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I wouldn't want the safe to be in garage, especially if it is in plain sight to the public every time your garage door is open. Just gives to many ideas to would be thieves. Could you maybe build a type of closet around the safe to at least keep it out of sight and add a little more security to it with maybe an alarm on your garage door. I understand that sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
 

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Don't put it close to a first story window either. Couple years ago in the next town over, someone wrapped a cable around one and pulled it through the wall with a truck.


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Garage would be my last option as I want my safes to be in a temp-controlled environment. A 500 lb safe would not be very difficult to move to an upstairs corner.
Also, once you get a safe, you will begin to store many other valuables in it, especially when you go on a trip or vacation.
I have 2 Liberty safes in my house; they are decent safes, but I realize they are not vaults by any means.
They each have a warming bar (Golden Rod, etc.) to help minimize 'condensation' (not humidity) + each has a large 'closet-sized' desiccant for absorbing humidity (Home Depot sells them).
Even in KS, I remove about 1/2 pint of water from each safe every 6 weeks.
A garage safe would require me to be stripping/oiling my firearms every few weeks... to much work, for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thanks for all the replies guys. If I get the safe I linked, I think I can bring it up with an appliance dolly and another male. I'll put it upstairs.

My house is well alarmed (interior/exterior cameras, window smash sensors, door sensors etc) but it will still take the county 15-25 minutes to respond. They have horrible response times in Palm Beach County with the Sheriff's Office. I might put a siren inside the closet which will make it extra obnoxious if they are in there trying to mess with the safe.
 

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I have a few safes in the garage and a small safe up stairs. I deal with safes all the time at work. In over 20 years I have yet to see a thief open a safe! I have seen all the videos of safes being opened. the one thing they all have in common is they are filmed by professional safe people to sell their product over another. As a professional, there aren't many safes I could not get into!

I would not worry as much about who made the safe as where its installed. You can make a cheap safe very difficult to open by putting it in a location that makes using a pry bar next to impossible. Likewise if the thief can't get access to the sides and back he cant cut the side off!

If I were getting a new safe, I'd pay most attn to the locking system. Look for a dial lock that spins smoothly, and is located so that you can see the dial easily. I had one that I needed a step stool to see the dial.[ notice I say had]. Id stay away from electronic locks. That's what normally breaks. DR
 

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I'm curious, what's the reasoning behind your decision? (I happen to agree with you.)
90% of the people I know that have had their homes broken into(or a close friend of theirs)...have had people only break into the garage to steal tools or whatever else they happen to see that they like. I suspect most(not all) robbers in my area avoid going into the actual home due to the fact that 95% of the local population has more guns in their home than people. So if a robber only goes into the garage and sees a safe, odds are they are going to want to get into that fancy (or not so fancy) gun safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Maybe I'll build a mechanism that once the safe door opens during an alarm event, it will lock the door to access the room where the safe is and release tear gas for 10 minutes. lol
 

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Thanks for all the replies guys. If I get the safe I linked, I think I can bring it up with an appliance dolly and another male. I'll put it upstairs.

My house is well alarmed (interior/exterior cameras, window smash sensors, door sensors etc) but it will still take the county 15-25 minutes to respond. They have horrible response times in Palm Beach County with the Sheriff's Office. I might put a siren inside the closet which will make it extra obnoxious if they are in there trying to mess with the safe.
If not, you need to hit the gym :rolleyes: It really should be no problem, I think you are underestimating your strength
 

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Maybe I'll build a mechanism that once the safe door opens during an alarm event, it will lock the door to access the room where the safe is and release tear gas for 10 minutes. lol
I know that was an LOL post, BUT many years ago when Gramps only had a metal cabinet to store his guns he did rig it with a tear gas bomb, with a sign on the front in big red letters that said "DISARM". One evening when we were getting ready to go out, my youngest step daughter said something that made Gramps so mad that instead of disarming the bomb he jerked the door open.

This was in the basement, not far from the furnace.

Not only did he have to change clothes before we left, we had tear gas all through the house, via the furnace fan, every time the furnace came on and it was late fall. And he had to throw away his really good leather shoulder holster, and...on and on.

So much for booby traps of any kind. :frown:
 

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What ever you do make sure the safe is bolted down.

The idea is to provide an obstacle that can't be easily be overcome with common burglar tools and in the short period of time the burglars are in your home and can't be picked up or dragged out.

Fire protection is another category.

Sam
 

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You can get them in just about anywhere you want. Even my 48 gun safes were not that hard to get in turned side ways they fit through most doors. As for the weight good dollies a little help and a plan make it easy
 
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