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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I have noticed an up surge in revolver talk on DC and I wanted to post a few tips I have found over the years. The reason I am posting this is because recently I watched a video on you tube that a gentleman posted on how to clean a stainless steel S&W 686. I posted a joking comment that while thorough; this guy was going to scare the hell out of new revolver owners and make me realize why I hate cleaning them. I wont mention names are go into detail on what happened afterward, but it was quite comical.

Here are a couple tips I have found over the years with regards to revolvers

1. Get a lead removal cloth. This alone is a miracle worker for SS guns! Watching this video the numb nut was taking 30 minutes to clean the cylinder in which takes me about 5 to get close to spotless with a lead removal cloth. Works great on the forcing cone as well! Every single old timer will know this and so it's pointed at newer shooters or folks that are new to revolvers.

2. Don't loosen the main spring screw too much! It will slow down your hammer (light primer strikes) and make your gun totally unreliable. If you are going to adjust it, know that you will need to work with it a little.

3. Change your grip from how you grip a semi auto! This can hurt the digits if you don't!

4. Learn to be proficient in double action. Many new shooters tend to want the easy light single action trigger pull. Learning double will pay dividends down the round for trigger control with all firearms.


Please feel free to add on some things as this is just a starter!
 

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It took me one year into owning a revolver to pick up on your advice #1. I would scrub and scrub with brushes, Hoppes etc. Then I found out about lead removal cloths and you're right, in 5 minutes or less I can get the cylinder and forcing cone cleaner than an hour of scrubbing the old way.
 

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I have been into revolvers for quite a while but have never seen a lead removal cloth where I pick up my cleaning supplies. Who makes them ?

As to a tip balancing a coin or empty shell casing on the barrel of your revolver while dry firing allows you to practice double action trigger control. Check and re check your weapon to ensure it is empty. Some people like to leave the room the ammunition is in I like to have the rounds in front of me so I can see them out side the gun. I use snap caps some say this is not needed but they are cheap last forever. A laser enhances this method of practice. A cheap way to stretch your training time and money.
 

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Hoppes, Birchwood Casey I believe.

They are out there. Google is your friend....
 
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C Hawk, This thread is a great idea thanks. I'm new to revolvers. I like my sp101 so much that I find myself already shopping for another revolver. My grip was my first lesson. Every cleaning I wondered if there was a better routine I could be using. Hopefully more members will contribute to this topic. I always benefit from the advice and knowledge from the members of this forum. Standing by
 

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In one of Grant Cummingham's revolver books he discusses a aiming/trigger technique called "Moving Point Of Aim". He's referring to double action shooting and suggests that, rather than trying to "snatch" the shot at the exact moment your sights are on target, allow the sight picture to hover or drift over the intended point of impact. His reasoning is that, rather than trying to hit a golf ball sized target, if you allow yourself the freedom to hit a apple sized target you will resist the impulse to grab the trigger and pull your shot off line. I found this to be helpful in my revolver sessions, and also of benefit in SA autos. With the revolver, I really do have to allow the sights to drift during the long DA trigger pull.

I think his point is that, by giving your brain permission to hover the sights, you're more relaxed and more likely to score.

Now that I think of it, this may also work for meeting members of the opposite sex.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi,

I use Birchwood Casey and it works great! My cylinders are spotless.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk.
 

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Frog lube is great for semis or revolvers, alot of us use lead round nose for range in our snubs. Try lewis lead removal system it will cut down your cleaning time, very easy to use. Makes your barrel shine get it at brownells
 

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You have to be careful with some of those lead removal clothes......especially on blued revolvers. If in doubt, read the directions on the container BEFORE using. Some of those products will remove the bluing on a handgun.
 

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GREAT tips, everyone; thanks for starting this C hawk Glock.

For what it's worth, dry firing with snap caps while watching the red dot from my Crimson Trace grips have really improved my groupings with my S&W 442. Training benefits are a huge, often overlooked asset of laser sights.
 

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I love this thread. I'll add a few tips I picked up over the years.

- When unloading empty brass, remember to aim your barrel upwards, and eject with some force. I like to think of it as "eject like you mean it." Only once have I had an empty shell get stuck under the star, and it took me forever to figure out how to get it free.

- Over-lubricating your revolver is MUCH worse than under-lubricating. I have yet to see a revolver that was in need of any lubrication, but I have run across revolvers that were over lubricated, which led to the action gumming up, and a horrible trigger pull.

- Get in the habit of checking the tightness of the screws on the revolver when you clean it. They do come loose, and when they do, they tend to get lost.
 

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Even though it makes you way cool at the range, avoid spinning an open cylinder. Simply rotating it slowly in your fingers will get the job done.
 

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On adjusting your grip: one major thing to remember is to keep your hand/fingers clear of the cylinder when firing. Specifically where the barrel and cylinder meet, there is a minute gap and hot gases will escape during firing.
 

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2. Don't loosen the main spring screw too much! It will effect your timing and make your gun totally unreliable. If you are going to adjust it, know that you will need to work with it a little.
Do you mean it may cause light primer strikes? It wouldn't have any effect on the revolvers timing.
 

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Excellent thread. +1 on keeping the muzzle vertical while ejecting spent rounds. Took me forever to figure out how to get a case out from under the star. This is especially true for snubs and revolvers that don't have a full-length ejector rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Do you mean it may cause light primer strikes? It wouldn't have any effect on the revolvers timing.
You are correct! I have made the appropriate edits. When timing popped into my brain I meant the speed and strength of the hammer not the actual timing as it relates to cylinder alignment.
 

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You are correct! I have made the appropriate edits. When timing popped into my brain I meant the speed and strength of the hammer not the actual timing as it relates to cylinder alignment.
I figured that might be what you were referring to. :wink:
 
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