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I just got my P226 back from Sig Sauer after buying a full service package to get her up to speed again. It is a model made in 1987 so I wanted to be sure it was ready to use for defensive purposed.

Yesterday I went for a run, while carrying, and it was raining. I figured "good thing its a NSW adopted pistol! It'll be able to handle some fresh water on it". So I did little more than wipe it off with a towel when I got back.

Woke up this morning, put on my pants, went to grab the Sig off my nightstand . . . and there's rust all over.

Most of the rust is where the holster wear occurs, however there is also a lot in the grooves on the back of the slide. I don't see a lot inside, but a see some on the trigger bar which worries me. I'm dissembling it, at least as much as I can without tools, and am cleaning it with M-Pro 7 and Hoppes. I figure I'll leave a little M-Pro on there as protection, but I also have a little bit of TW25 grease that I might use too.

Questions.

What are the chances that there is rust on some critical internals parts that I can't see? What can I do to prevent more damage or reliability problems? What can I do in the future to prevent this?
 

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Well, dont beat yourself up too bad. Thats a lesson you will never forget. Always "Oil" your weapon after handling, contact with rust causing agents (sweat, water, etc), and you probably will never have that problem again.

As re the internals, Id break it down and examine it, but Id guess it wont be too bad. Probably enough "oil" in there to give it some protection, not to mention that most of the internals were probably not exposed to the rain/water.

Virtually ANY oil will protect from rust. The old timers used to use 3 in 1 oil. AND IT WORKED, lol. As the old instructions used to read; Anoint with oil. Remove excess.
 

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When I was carrying a P6, I always kept an oiled rag in a ziplock bag on my dresser, and wiped the slide down every night. Send the slide back to Sig for a re-blue and it will be even less of a worry for you. As to the internals, as long as it's oiled properly after a cleaning, you're probably good to go. My 229 gets rain and sweat on it all the time, and I've never had a problem with rust on the internals. I spent two days this week power washing my hose while open carrying, and there was no water intrusion that I could find when I did an inspection afterward.
 

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When I was carrying a P6, I always kept an oiled rag in a ziplock bag on my dresser, and wiped the slide down every night. Send the slide back to Sig for a re-blue and it will be even less of a worry for you. As to the internals, as long as it's oiled properly after a cleaning, you're probably good to go. My 229 gets rain and sweat on it all the time, and I've never had a problem with rust on the internals. I spent two days this week power washing my hose while open carrying, and there was no water intrusion that I could find when I did an inspection afterward.
I'm oiling everything I can see, but what about the parts that are buried?

Update: I tried gettting the rust off with a brass brush . . . I think I've really messed up the finish now . . .:icon_cry:
 

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I'm oiling everything I can see, but what about the parts that are buried?

Update: I tried gettting the rust off with a brass brush . . . I think I've really messed up the finish now . . .:icon_cry:
WD40 isnt much protection against rust, BUT, its great at getting water out/water off of parts.

Id spray the internals with WD40, (generic brands work, too), let it drain well, wipe down as best you can. Then "anoint lightly with oil".
 

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The only parts buried really are the slide internals. It can be stripped with a small punch and hammer. You tube has clips to walk you through it. Everything else can be reached by removing the grips. A brass brush or some super fine steel wool is what I have used for similar issues. I had an older P220 that had some light rust spots when I bought it, and the brush dipped in Hoppes fixed it right up. The light scratches and holster wear are par for the course. As I said, Sig can put an as new finish back on it to give you a fresh start, then just keep it oiled and you're good to go.
 

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WD40 isnt much protection against rust, BUT, its great at getting water out/water off of parts.

Id spray the internals with WD40, (generic brands work, too), let it drain well, wipe down as best you can. Then "anoint lightly with oil".
The only parts buried really are the slide internals. It can be stripped with a small punch and hammer. You tube has clips to walk you through it. Everything else can be reached by removing the grips. A brass brush or some super fine steel wool is what I have used for similar issues. I had an older P220 that had some light rust spots when I bought it, and the brush dipped in Hoppes fixed it right up. The light scratches and holster wear are par for the course. As I said, Sig can put an as new finish back on it to give you a fresh start, then just keep it oiled and you're good to go.
Thanks for all the advice. I'd hate to send it back to Sig again so soon, considering I'm in between employment, and I missed her so much while she was gone!

I've tried getting the grip off before, but I put some nicks in the screws trying. I'll try and look up some help online. I might grab a bottle of WD40, just to make completely sure all the water is out. I mean, it was pouring out while I was running in the woods, and I slipped into some nasty mud holes too. There are even a couple rust spots on the barrel I see now, so that worries me about the parts I can't see.

On another note, does anyone recommend grease over oil when it come to protection? I noticed that the Sig factory lathered the internals in grease.
 

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I'm oiling everything I can see, but what about the parts that are buried?

Update: I tried gettting the rust off with a brass brush . . . I think I've really messed up the finish now . . .:icon_cry:
I use G-96 aerosol gun treatment. Seems to work well.
 

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Thanks for all the advice. I'd hate to send it back to Sig again so soon, considering I'm in between employment, and I missed her so much while she was gone!

I've tried getting the grip off before, but I put some nicks in the screws trying. I'll try and look up some help online. I might grab a bottle of WD40, just to make completely sure all the water is out. I mean, it was pouring out while I was running in the woods, and I slipped into some nasty mud holes too.

On another note, does anyone recommend grease over oil when it come to protection? I noticed that the Sig factory lathered the internals in grease.
I use the same TW25 grease that they supplied with their new guns on the slide rails, hammer pivot, and both trigger pivot pins. Then whatever oil I have around on the rest of the surfaces. All frame internals go together dry so as to not attract powder crud.
 
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I use the same TW25 grease that they supplied with their new guns on the slide rails, hammer pivot, and both trigger pivot pins. Then whatever oil I have around on the rest of the surfaces. All frame internals go together dry so as to not attract powder crud.
By "go together dry" you mean do not lubricate them, in order to prevent debris collection?
 

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By "go together dry" you mean do not lubricate them, in order to prevent debris collection?
Yes. The firing pin channel gums up quickly if there is lube of any kind in there.
 
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Surface rust (absent pitting) is cosmetic, period. I've submerged them, drug them trou da mud, got rained on, sweated on them, etc., etc. That constitutes "use", not abuse. Carry pistols are meant for hard use and to keep working. Don't worry so much about it. Just clean it regularly and after it gets wet and it will continue to work fine. It isn't fragile. If it was it wouldn't be a carry pistol.

Buy a shiny new one, keep it in the box with all the papers in the back of your safe, and all of a sudden blemishing, dunking, scratching, nicking, etc., your EDC shootin' iron won't cause you any consternation. I've got doubles of quite a few guns I either carry or shoot at the range. In fact, I am more liable than not (when I want a certain pistol) to buy a used shooter first, and then get a LNIB collector piece. Sometimes it doesn't happen that way, and that first shot doesn't cost $.38, but rather several hundred dollars.

It's well known I'm not a fan of J. Yeager, but I agree with a lot of what he teaches, and one of those things is that the firearm you carry should be looked at and treated like a tool, not a safe queen collector piece. If you actually have to use it the last thing on your mind should be the aesthetics of the pistol, so it's actually a good habit to establish to avoid treating as such all the time. That is also the reason he teaches to treat empty magazines like a used Kleenex (though when he drops them in the sand I probably wince).
 
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I'm oiling everything I can see, but what about the parts that are buried?

Update: I tried gettting the rust off with a brass brush . . . I think I've really messed up the finish now . . .:icon_cry:
0000 steel wool works better than a brass brush and not as harmful to the finish. The parts where the finish has been damaged will need some extra protection since they will be the first to rust. A squirt of WD-40 should help with water displacement inside, but you will need some rust preventative. I personally would not send it back to SIG unless you have a function problem (which is unlikely)
 

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I totally and completely disagree that 0000 steel wool will damage your pistol less than a brass brush. Steel wool, no matter how fine, will remove metal and finish. I've use brass brushes my whole life and never seen any damage caused to steel from one. If you're afraid of a brass brush use a greenie meanie pad. My advice is to never put steel wool on any firearm unless you intend to remove metal or finish.
 

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Yes. The firing pin channel gums up quickly if there is lube of any kind in there.
I just heard the same thing from another video. However I think I've already gotten stuff in there in the past, so I'll need to find a way to clean it out. Thanks for the advice.

Surface rust (absent pitting) is cosmetic, period. I've submerged them, drug them trou da mud, got rained on, sweated on them, etc., etc. That constitutes "use", not abuse. Carry pistols are meant for hard use and to keep working. Don't worry so much about it. Just clean it regularly and after it gets wet and it will continue to work fine. It isn't fragile. If it was it wouldn't be a carry pistol.

Buy a shiny new one, keep it in the box with all the papers in the back of your safe, and all of a sudden blemishing, dunking, scratching, nicking, etc., your EDC shootin' iron won't cause you any consternation. I've got doubles of quite a few guns I either carry or shoot at the range. In fact, I am more liable than not (when I want a certain pistol) to buy a used shooter first, and then get a LNIB collector piece. Sometimes it doesn't happen that way, and that first shot doesn't cost $.38, but rather several hundred dollars.

It's well known I'm not a fan of J. Yeager, but I agree with a lot of what he teaches, and one of those things is that the firearm you carry should be looked at and treated like a tool, not a safe queen collector piece. If you actually have to use it the last thing on your mind should be the aesthetics of the pistol, so it's actually a good habit to establish to avoid treating as such all the time. That is also the reason he teaches to treat empty magazines like a used Kleenex (though when he drops them in the sand I probably wince).
And that was my thinking when I went running with my Sig. However, I was not expecting to see rust, and although rust on the external is no problem for function, it just really worried me that the same thing was going on inside where it does matter.
 

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The only oil that I have used for over 25 years has been Clenzoil. All the rabbit hunting and deer hunting I have done never had a gun rust. I had guns setting for 10 to 15 years that never rusted.
 
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