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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I like this article but, to be honest its because I agree with most of it

WHEELGUN WISDOM | Running Double-Action Revolvers - American Cop

I don't believe "staging" a revolver trigger is a good idea as DA is just as effective as SA if you shoot enough and your smooth enough.

I still think this "universal" revolver reload is the best as it makes the most of strong ejection with stubborn brass and dexterous reloading,especially 2x2 free hand but, even a quick strip or speed loader works better with your better hand.

Finally, on a concealed carry revolver, we really should lose the damned hammers. There really is no good reason to have a hammer. Its an "option" you don't need. You can still holster with thumb on a bobbed hammer. I still have one hammered concealed carry revolver but, I am shopping for a spare to bob. In my own experiments I never found single action to give me a discernible advantage over just working my trigger control more effectively. I understand nostalgia and the better looks but, that is no reason to hang onto one for concealed self defense. Hammers should be for collectables and single action revolvers. My biggest excuse for hanging onto hammers is I have holsters with thumb breaks.
So, I carried my model 10 today in the old level II police holster and you still can't draw the bobbed hammer gun without using the thumb break. So, there goes my final excuse, at least on that gun.

Yes, I am partial to the feel, control and retention of the old discountinued Uncle Mike's grips. The only finger groove grip maker that ever fit my hand size perfectly. The best ejection and speed loader clearance of any grips I have ever tried. I think their ugly but, I don't carry a gun to win a beauty prize. What works best and what I like are not always the same thing and I need to learn to go with "works" in the application of a defensive tool. I have more than a few grips for all these guns and some are just beautiful wood and bone but, I keep going back to these for actual carrying concealed.

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I like the idea of the shrouded hammer. Yeah, it's just another lint trap, but it gives one the option if SA even if never used. For CC/SD use, no, an exposed hammer is not needed. But it's nice on that 6-shooter you carry on your hunting trips afield.
 

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Staging the trigger when shooting a snubbie 40 and 50 yards helps me so there’s that.
As far as the hammer being bobbed goes I can take it or leave it.

I use to love the Uncle Mike’s Combat grips, especially on my old M19, which left the factory with them.

These days I prefer the factory wood ( or Dymond Wood) as S&W calls them.
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The 642 is my favorite pocket option. I too like the old Uncle Mikes boot grips. Fills the palm of my hand and my pinky just curls under. I stage the trigger on mine all day long.
 

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I like to have a hammer on snubbies so I can do a rotation check without fingering the trigger but I shoot strictly DA with the short guns. On bigger guns I use both SA and DA. I prefer rubber grips on all of them. I'm strictly a function before looks guy.
 

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I am supportive of any active discussion concerning defensive revolver techniques instead of more polystriker drivel.
 

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I didn't feel like the 1911 tonight at the Celtic festival. So these light, comfy friends went along (with a speed strip or two tucked away). Nice evening with good food and music. I still feel just fine with these along.

I will admit the uncle mikes rubber grips are nice, but they never work in an ankle rig for me (they always grab the pants). These altamont grips look great and work very well. Speedloaders still work and quickly if you practice LOTS.


42 2.jpg 42 1.jpg
 

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No pocket carry for me so hammer spur is no problem. For close and quick, no staging the trigger. Shot PPC style matches for years and did stage the trigger for each stage of fire. For those not familiar with PPC, it is an old revolver course of fire, the 1st stage is 12 rounds, 20 seconds, one reload. Did better at 50 yards staging the trigger than single action. YMMV
 

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Well, to be technically/pedantically correct, I am seeing hammers in all of these pictured revolvers. ;) Even the S&W Centennial types (Models 40, 42, 640, 642, 342, etc.) have a hammer, concealed inside the frame. ;)

I do agree that bobbing or abbreviating the hammer spur can be a positive modification, for many folks, in many applications/environments. I have exchanged hammers, making three of my Ruger revolvers spur-less. I tried, with a fourth one, a Speed Six, but the fit was not correct. These are not, technically, “drop-in” parts, even with Rugers.

Really, however, Ruger DA revolver hammer spurs have not caused me any problems. I have stopped bothering to swap for spurless hammers, with Rugers. S&W hammers are a different story; they do snag, fish-hook, abrade, and generally behave badly.

S&W DAO hammers are not drop-in, either. One can get lucky, or, not. I bought one of the last new NYPD-spec DAO Model 64 hammers that GT Distributors had in stock, a number of years ago. When I finally sourced a Model 64 snubby, of the correct “dash” series, I discovered that I was not lucky, with the fit. I will try again, eventually, with another K-Frame.
 

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I've been shooting wheelguns over 55 years and I have traditionally shot them very well. I don't have a problem with spurred hammers. They give me the option of making a precision shot if I need to. It's interesting to me that people have no problem with spurred hammers and single action on autos, but the last decade or so, it's become popular to say they should never be used on wheelguns. Generations of LEOs and non-LEOs have carried revos with spurred hammers and it's never been a problem until recently.

That's what I call a "fad recommendation."
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I like to have a hammer on snubbies so I can do a rotation check without fingering the trigger but I shoot strictly DA with the short guns. On bigger guns I use both SA and DA. I prefer rubber grips on all of them. I'm strictly a function before looks guy.
This is a really important point that I failed to address. I have had a revolver completely jam because of a couple of high primers. This was Hornady critical defense so not some cheap ammo. Fortunately this was at the range because it took gentle tapping with a rubber mallet back at home to get the cylinder open.
For my 642 I do cycle the rounds through my hammered Rossi to function check. I guess you could use a straight edge of some sort too but, this is something to consider.
 

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I like to have a hammer on snubbies so I can do a rotation check without fingering the trigger
That’s a great way to check for high primers.
 
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