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Well yesterday rained pretty much all day. Cut my mowing food plot prep work short.

Luckily I had a couple reloading projects standing by:

Prepped 100 new Starline .260 Rem brass; annealed, resized, cleaned up flash holes, and trimmed. Pretty consistent stuff. 100 rds with a low of 168.4 grns and high of 170.7 grns. Primer pockets were all correct (uniforming removed almost nothing on the few that were out, most untouched) and flash holes centered. I sampled case neck thickness and didn't see any more than .0015 out, majority were within .001.

Also annealed 50 Nosler .260 and 50 WIN 6mm SLR. So now I'm sitting on 150rds of .260 brass ready to load. Plan is to wait till the weather cools a bit and work up a load for my little MOD 7 based on a 130grn Nosler Accubond. I've got the 120 Nosler BTs shooting sub MOA at 2900 FPS, but want to try something a little heavier for Mulies.
 

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While I haven't see a need to anneal my 6mm Mongoose cases (yet), I tried it on a few and they almost all had extraction issues. Not sure what was going on there. I annealed after resizing, so don't know if that may have been the cause, versus annealing then sizing. The expense of a good annealing setup hasn't been merited yet for my uses.
 

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Not to derail the thread but what method do you use to anneal brass. I need to make some 256 Win Mag from 357 Mag brass.
 

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While I haven't see a need to anneal my 6mm Mongoose cases (yet), I tried it on a few and they almost all had extraction issues. Not sure what was going on there. I annealed after resizing, so don't know if that may have been the cause, versus annealing then sizing. The expense of a good annealing setup hasn't been merited yet for my uses.
From what I've read, best to anneal before resizing and I've never tried sizing 1st:

https://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

The last question is, "Do I anneal before resizing, or after"? Theoretically annealing does not change the diameter of the case neck. In practice, it may or may not, depending on how much the metal is stressed. Therefore, you should always anneal before resizing.
I use a BC1000 automated annealer I bought back in 1999 while reforming a chitload of .45-90 2.4' brass into .40-70Win (2.4"). It does around 500rds and hr once set up, so I normally anneal my precision rifle stuff about every firing and my regular rifle brass about every 3rd firing. It goes a long, long ways in brass longevity and helps with getting good chrono stats not to mention accuracy. I'll scrounge .223 throughout the match season (3GUN) then prep them in late JAN/FEB when hunting season is done. Since it's all range pick-up, I run it through the annealer after it's cleaned. My BC1000 cranking out .223:

 

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Now you're showing off.:rolleyes: I can't justify the expense of an annealer yet, not when .223 brass is so cheap and available. My preference is Mil brass, LC if possible. It's just a pain in the butt making Mongoose brass, but that's part of the wildcat game.
 

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Now you're showing off.:rolleyes: I can't justify the expense of an annealer yet, not when .223 brass is so cheap and available. My preference is Mil brass, LC if possible. It's just a pain in the butt making Mongoose brass, but that's part of the wildcat game.

That's the major reason I anneal. By the time I'm done case forming, prepping, weighing and sorting I want my brass to last a while.....
 
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