Nope. I have never had a problem with my standard cut. I have pretty thin hands, though. I could see how some people might have a problem.
To combat cut or not to combat cut...that is the question.
I've had my Crossbreed Supertuck Horsehide for a few months now and I really like it thus far. I'm just regretting not opting for the combat cut when I ordered it. I find it difficult to get a positive grip on the draw with the standard cut, have any of you encountered this problem? Did you just incorporate a different drawing technique into your training regiment? Or did you modify your Supertuck yourself? Or did you send it in to Crossbreed to have them apply a combat cut to it?
I'm thinking of doing my own combat cut, any suggestions warnings or tips? I'm just worried how the Horsehide will respond to cutting it whether or not the edges will fray, I'm just not sure if Crossbreed somehow seals the edges when performing the cut?
Thanks
I'm thinking of doing my own combat cut, any suggestions warnings or tips? I'm just worried how the Horsehide will respond to cutting it whether or not the edges will fray, I'm just not sure if Crossbreed somehow seals the edges when performing the cut?
Thanks
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I have done it myself on a couple. It isn't difficult. Just go slow and remember, you can take more off but you can't put any back.
It really is easier to just have Crossbreed do it when you order.
It really is easier to just have Crossbreed do it when you order.
Like they say, measure twice, cut once. Never all the way the first time. That's what she said anyway.
My Crossbreed for my PPS is NOT cut, however for my HK P2000 SK is Cut. Reasoning, with the PPS I'm normally not wearing a shirt between it and my body (Night Events), with the HK I'm normally wear an Under Armory cool shirt between it and my body (EDC). In the temps here in Vegas the not cut gives me protection from moisture. Both are horsehide.
I did a combat cut on my qwik tuck myself.
I traced the outline of the area below the trigger guard and the area under the beaver tail of the holstered pistol with a pen. I tired to leave as much material as possible while still improving my grip. Then I used a sharp edge of a little survival tool credit card thingy I had laying around. Basically I used it like a chisel. I also used one of those foam sandpaper blocks to round the edges like the rest of the holster looked.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk, please excuse typos.
I traced the outline of the area below the trigger guard and the area under the beaver tail of the holstered pistol with a pen. I tired to leave as much material as possible while still improving my grip. Then I used a sharp edge of a little survival tool credit card thingy I had laying around. Basically I used it like a chisel. I also used one of those foam sandpaper blocks to round the edges like the rest of the holster looked.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk, please excuse typos.
I'd cut it, I can't stand not being able to get a full grip before you draw, it should be a pretty simple thing to do as well.
-Clay
-Clay
Proper initial grip is vital. Congrats on considering the question at all. More people who carry need to actually train and see if their gear/setup really is as good as they think it is and test their skills and technique.
What do you suggest I use to cut it with Clay? Sharp kitchen scissors, exacto knife, tin snips?I'd cut it, I can't stand not being able to get a full grip before you draw, it should be a pretty simple thing to do as well.
-Clay
I made my own horsehide/kydex IWB for my first carry gun, a CZ82, and I combat cut it. A week later the left side grip screw was starting to rust from skin contact. I modified the holster by adding another layer of horsehide to the back and it has been great ever since. I say don't cut if you can learn to live without it.
Which begs the question: why are they available " wrong" in the first place?Proper initial grip is vital. Congrats on considering the question at all. More people who carry need to actually train and see if their gear/setup really is as good as they think it is and test their skills and technique.
Perhaps a holster mfg not understanding holster design and or trade off.Which begs the question: why are they available " wrong" in the first place?
Big sweat shield protects the gun and body but limits the grip.
No sweat shield no protection but provides a full grip.
I cut my crossbreed and will not be ordering anymore holsters without the combat cut knor will I be paying extra for combat cut.
I cut mine to get a positive grip on my pistol.
+1 on the combat cut. It is much better for acquiring a good grip on your pistol when drawing..
I do not understand why a maker would charge extra for something that should have been done in the first place, and involves little, if any extra effort in the manufacturing process.Perhaps a holster mfg not understanding holster design and or trade off.
Big sweat shield protects the gun and body but limits the grip.
No sweat shield no protection but provides a full grip.
I cut my crossbreed and will not be ordering anymore holsters without the combat cut knor will I be paying extra for combat cut.
Because they can, and people keep paying for it ... and saying "thank you," to boot.I do not understand why a maker would charge extra for something that should have been done in the first place, and involves little, if any extra effort in the manufacturing process.
I cut my horsehide holster with a good pair of tin snips(milwakee). Very easy and made a very nice clean cut. Used black marker and looks like it was made this way. Pleased with it.
Perhaps there leather is die cut, The combat cut would require either hand cutting more labor and or ordering a new die more money.I do not understand why a maker would charge extra for something that should have been done in the first place, and involves little, if any extra effort in the manufacturing process.
Just curious, who says they are 'wrong'? Because it's not how you like ? Based upon info on their web site only their combat cut is firearm specific not one size fits all, and only a small percent of their customers want that option. See below from the Crossbreed FAQOriginally Posted by rednichols
Which begs the question: why are they available " wrong" in the first place?
The Combat Grip is where we trim away some of the leather from the holster backer.
This allows a firmer grasp on the gun during the draw stroke. This modification does sacrifice a little bit of comfort but does increase the draw speed. This is an extra cost option because this cut is made to follow the contour of the slide/grip of the individual firearm and varies from one gun to another.
Approximatley 20% of our customers like this option, the others either have no preference or feel it sacrificess too much comfort.
Options for the other 80% may include dont want to pay extra for something they can do themselves if they feel the need, or dont have a clue one way or the other as to how and why.Just curious, who says they are 'wrong'? Because it's not how you like ? Based upon info on their web site only their combat cut is firearm specific not one size fits all, and only a small percent of their customers want that option. See below from the Crossbreed FAQ
Choices and trade offs.
More comfort may be more likely to carry in the first place.
Proper grip faster more accurate shots if you should need the firearm.
If you should need the firearm which is more important? Both
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
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