Nice piece....a lot of sheriff deputies out here carry them.
Thanks for chiming in, neighbor! :smile:Nice piece....a lot of sheriff deputies out here carry them.
Smitty: looks like we've got a little AZ group here, friend! I think that for some, it may take time to adjust to the sharpness of 20 lpi checkering. I'm really glad, however, that Springfield felt it wise to choose 20 lpi checkering (vs. 25 lpi or 30 lpi) for the very popular TRP pistol.When I started shooting my TRP a lot - as in weekly steel matches - that aggressive checkering darn near drew blood! But years later I appreciate what it does for a solid grip on the gun, especially with a .45. Several months ago I got a Range Officer in 9mm for the steel matches - a pretty similar gun, minus the front strap checkering. When drawing quickly, I realized I didn't have a consistently firm grip on the gun because that checkering wasn't there. I took the cheap route for now and there's skateboard tape on the front strap, achieving pretty much the same effect.
Thanks Luke! My plan is to not need to send this to another home anytime soon! :image035: But it's good to know that another potential good "home" is out there.She's a beaut, DHart. If you ever decide you can't take care of her anymore, I'll be glad to give her a good home. :icon_wink:
Actually, it was two PCSO deputies in a Pat Rogers course who convinced me to go that route. They both carried the Springer Pro models (like the FBI HRT guns) but I couldn't swing the $2500+. They were aware - as the SA team at the NRA show confirmed - that the TRP is pretty much the same major pieces but with more hand fitting involved. I've got probably 12K or more rounds through mine now, and the only casualty was a broken extractor.Nice piece....a lot of sheriff deputies out here carry them.
I don't like front strap checkering, vertical serrations like on the S&W 1911s I can deal with, I even put smooth MSH on 1911s that are mostly range guns.When I started shooting my TRP a lot - as in weekly steel matches - that aggressive checkering darn near drew blood! But years later I appreciate what it does for a solid grip on the gun, especially with a .45. Several months ago I got a Range Officer in 9mm for the steel matches - a pretty similar gun, minus the front strap checkering. When drawing quickly, I realized I didn't have a consistently firm grip on the gun because that checkering wasn't there. I took the cheap route for now and there's skateboard tape on the front strap, achieving pretty much the same effect.
Nothing wrong with that, at all. Different shooters have different preferences. I was relatively "ok" with smooth front straps for the first years of my 1911 use (Colts, mostly). Then I had a few of those Colts customized, with serrations on the front straps. The serrations improved the traction and were a "step-up" for me in terms of stability in the hand while shooting.I don't like front strap checkering, vertical serrations like on the S&W 1911s I can deal with, I even put smooth MSH on 1911s that are mostly range guns.
TRP is a good lower-cost alternative to the Professional. And, as mentioned above, you've got the major basics covered (front strap checkering, Novak nights, lowered/flarred ejection port, beavertail GS) from the get-go, making one's user-defined custom upgrades of small parts relatively easy to do, over time if desired, without requiring expensive refinishing, shipping, pistol smith charges, etc.Actually, it was two PCSO deputies in a Pat Rogers course who convinced me to go that route. They both carried the Springer Pro models (like the FBI HRT guns) but I couldn't swing the $2500+. They were aware - as the SA team at the NRA show confirmed - that the TRP is pretty much the same major pieces but with more hand fitting involved. I've got probably 12K or more rounds through mine now, and the only casualty was a broken extractor.
Thank you, OD. :smile:She's a beaut alright, Dan. :hand10:
OK... I have a lot of respect for you for having done that. Though I have some very modest skills tweaking pistols like the 1911, checkering a front strap is most certainly something that I would want to leave to a specialist, rather than take on myself, in spite of your encouragement and the help of tools such as jigs. I'll leave that to someone like Pete Single and channel my creative energy into writing and playing music. :smile:Very nice.
The beauty of this genre of handgun is that once you know exactly what you want/need you can custom tailor the gun so that it becomes EXACTLY what is perfect for you.
I have hand checkered a few front straps. It is not all that difficult to do a perfect job.
You really need to take your time though. The finer the checkering the easier it is to mess up.
It is possible to do it on a shoestring. The frame needs to be held rock solid.
I did that by running a length of hardwood (cut to the dimensions of a magazine) all the way through the frame and then clamping the wood into a heavy drill press vise.
I kept that from moving around on my bench with a...."C" clamp.
Some wood shims tapped in between the hardwood and the frame locked that wood into the mag well.
Once you get your first vertical line cut perfectly the remainder of the verticals go like SLOW clockwork.
The checkering file stops cutting once each line reaches the correct depth.
A ZIP-TIE pulled tight around the frame gives you an accurate starting guide for the cross checkering.
And then the checkering gets perfectly pointed up with a triangular riffler file. (also available from Brownell's)
Cold Blue (for a blued frame) works really well.
Degrease. Cold Blue. Then use one of those black handled Stainless toothbrushes to brush in both directions.
The Stainless bristles are softer than the frame steel BTW so that just burnished the bluing.
You need to repeat the Cold Blue process a few times. :yup:
Then I just scrubbed in some Renaissance Wax with a regular toothbrush.
Let that dry and brushed it all again with a dry toothbrush.
And then I put my Wifes toothbrush back into the holder in the bathroom. :rofl:
OK....Just kidding about that last part.
Trying hand checkering is a really good Winter project when you can just take your time...stop and go back to it.
An Opti-Visor with modest magnification really helps especially with the finer checkering but, really it goes mostly by..."feel."
I think most people that do hand checkering do it dry. I did mine with oil which is more messy.
Lots of paper towels handy and a toothbrush to keep the file and the frame clean while working.
It is something that some folks might want to try. :yup:
I am sure that there are YouTube Videos on the process by now.
I just sort of made some of it up as I went along.
NOW...There are 1911 checkering jigs which probably make it pretty much impossible to mess up.
Interesting. The slide to frame fit on my TRP is silky smooth; not tight, nor loose. I'm wondering if they are making them tighter these days?I'm embarrass to say this but the was a LGS buddy picking up a TRP and he handled it to me, I try to rack the slide and nothing, thought to my self the safety is on, it wasn't I cocked the hammer and after much effort the slide moved, TRPs are tight.............. LOL
Could be like the Les Baer's and Springer's Professional Model, Dan, mine were extremely tight, but it was at the barrel slide lock-up and barrel bushing. If you'd placed the slide on the receiver without the barrel, they are very well fitted, and without any vertical or horizontal movement but they slide like they're on glass.Interesting. The slide to frame fit on my TRP is silky smooth; not tight, nor loose. I'm wondering if they are making them tighter these days?
he bought this TPR like 6 years ago, but who knows how long was sitting at the distributor.Interesting. The slide to frame fit on my TRP is silky smooth; not tight, nor loose. I'm wondering if they are making them tighter these days?