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Title says it all. I've got a Holosun green dot mounted directly on a HK VP9 (no mounting plate) zeroed at 20 yards. This is strictly a self defence gun; I don't compete, but still want accuracy at a distance.

What distance do you recommend for zero?

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25 yards, and hold slightly low at closer ranges to account for height of the optic over the barrel.
 

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Not exactly apples to apples, but I zeroed my Ruger PC Charger at 25 yards. Sig Sauer Romeo 5 red dot with the tall base. This is with Sig Sauer 147 gr. Crown Elite JHP. The 115 gr Fiocchi fmj impacts about an inch lower due to flatter trajectory. From a rest of course.

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If you are sighted in for 20 I would call it good. Just shoot at different distances and verify elevation 3-15 yards.
 

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It depends. I attended a Dave Spaulding RMR workshop (along with DC member Kevin Rohrer) last weekend, and Dave had us zero at ten yards. When I zero off the bench here at the house, I'm generally at fifteen yards. Zero distance, at least on a handgun affects POA/POI so little for a carry gun that I spend no time worrying about it.
 

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10 yards for handgun for me.
 
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My carry guns are being sighted in for 30 yards now. The difference in POI in the 5-30 yard range is basically negligible. We are generally talking about distances that are very short, so the natural arc of the bullet is not going to vary much.

That's what I have found for my guns. Using either my .357 mag revolvers or my .40 semi-autos.

Push your limits, and see the difference in YOUR gun(s).
 

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25-yards
 

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Depends on how high the optic sits, parallax being the nasty truth-b*tch of physics that she is. 25 yards for my larger handguns, 15 yards for my smaller ones.
 

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The guys that I have listened too with some experience in using Red Dots usually say 15 yards.
 

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With my 9 mm's, a 25 yard zero gives my guns roughly the following trajectory:
1/4 - 1/2 inch low at 7 yards
0 at 25 yards
1 inch low at 50 yards
4-5 inch low at 75 yards
9-10 inch low at 100 yards (aim at nose, hit upper chest)
 

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Not exactly apples to apples, but I zeroed my Ruger PC Charger at 25 yards.
Sounds about right.

Zeroing a 9 mm 115 gr FMJ at 25 yards results in a rise of about a quarter of an inch and a 1.6 to 1.9 inch drop by double the distance. If you need to hit something at 100 yards, it's a 12 inch drop, about the same as the distance between the center of a face and one's heart.
 

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Couldn’t say. I don’t have ANY optics on any of my handguns. But I suspect that day is coming.

I may wait until I’ve taken that course at the Sig Academy.

All of my lasers are zeroed to sit on top of the front sight out to 50 feet.
 

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Fifteen yards with the Holosun green dot on my FNH FNX-45 Tactical .45 ACP, which is about the longest possible shot inside my home. If I put one on a 10mm handgun, I would go with twenty-five yards for the flatter trajectory. I would go with fifty yards with a .44 magnum and one hundred yards for my .454 Casull.
 

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It is definitely not like zeroing a red dot on a rifle. If you pick a reasonable range and the bullets go where the dot is, you should be good. Id say anything from 15-25 yards should be sufficient. With a rifle, the zero is important because you will likely be using both the first intersection of bullet and line of sight, when the bullet is increasing in elevation in relation to the line of sight, and also the second intersection, when it is losing elevation. On top of that, you will need to know your hold over and hold unders at distances between and beyond those.

Dont expect most people to be firing their handgun at 100+ yards, so it isnt as important. Id say the most important thing is to pick a distance, lets say 15-25 yards, get SUPER stable, and fire the gun for a good group directly on POA/POI. Id suggest putting the gun on a rest of some sort. Then Id probably just confirm the windage at a slightly further distance if possible, which will amplify any slight mistake because of the closer distance you zeroed at. Wouldnt also be a bad idea to fire at something like 2-3 yards and check your mechanical offset to see how low you hit and remember that.
 

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25 yards. 50 yds. for my PDW's with red dot's.
 

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Sounds about right.

Zeroing a 9 mm 115 gr FMJ at 25 yards results in a rise of about a quarter of an inch and a 1.6 to 1.9 inch drop by double the distance. If you need to hit something at 100 yards, it's a 12 inch drop, about the same as the distance between the center of a face and one's heart.
YMMV, but with my 3.3" barrel 9 mm's zeroed at 25 yards, I'm 1 inch low at 50 yards and 9-10 inches low at 100 yards with 124 gr standard pressure Underwood loads.
 

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25 yards, and hold slightly low at closer ranges to account for height of the optic over the barrel.
You mean hold High as the POI can be "X", being the height of the Dot over the bore, inches lower.
I've noticed, especially with a 9mm, that sighting in at 25 yds gives pretty much center hits at 50 yds to 10 yds. If you're under 10 yds it will start diverging. But I guarantee technique issues can cause more cause for concern.
If I sight in for 15 yds it may or may not be zeroed at 50 yds.
 

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You mean hold High as the POI can be "X", being the height of the Dot over the bore, inches lower.
I've noticed, especially with a 9mm, that sighting in at 25 yds gives pretty much center hits at 50 yds to 10 yds. If you're under 10 yds it will start diverging. But I guarantee technique issues can cause more cause for concern.
If I sight in for 15 yds it may or may not be zeroed at 50 yds.
Yes, I stated that backwards, thanks for the catch. Up close the POI is below POA due to height of the optic over the bore.
 
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