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What's my gun worth?

811 Views 12 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  ShooterGranny
More specifically, I want to upgrade my arsenal. I have a S&W 36 and a 19. How do I find out what they are worth and how do I get the most out of them?
Any suggestions? These are nice, old classics and I want to get my money's worth out of them.
I'm selling them because they have become safe queens. I want to get a lightweight snubbie and a hi-cap 9mm to take their places.
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See if there are some of those guns for sale on gun broker...that will help you with pricing.
Any gun is exactly worth what someone else will pay for it. Not a penny more. The prices on Gun Broker often look very inflated to me. Check what they have actually sold for on GB - and not just one, but a few of each model.

Slightly off topic aside comment.......I recently had a package: Gun, holster, 2 extra magazines plus upgrades to the gun like night sights, etc. I asked $600 knowing I would not get that much even though it was "worth" $800 for everything. After trying to sell it locally for a couple months with no bites at all, I accepted an offer for $500, mostly because it was a man I know from our club and he is very nice and I felt good about him getting what used to be one of my well liked guns that I can no longer shoot because of arthritis. SO, that package was actually worth $500 because that is what someone was willing to pay for it.
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I've looked on gunbroker and I've got an idea what they are bringing. Seems like the simplest way to sell them would be to post them at my club.
I know I'll regret selling them but I'm getting to the point where I don't like hanging on to things I'm not using. I would carry a LW snub and shoot a 9mm.
You can always start with a higher asking price which will give you a bit of leeway to go lower.

Or post them at your gun club individually with a MAKE OFFER.

You can always say...."No" but, you WILL get bites with somebody willing to offer more.
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Also keep in mind that if roles were reversed and you were interested in buying a would want to feel like you were getting a bit of a deal.

It is nice when both seller and buyer can walk away satisfied and smiling.

Tossing in a couple of no longer needed accessories can sweeten the deal for the buyer.
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Also note that s&w have different model and - codes and pre dash guns ..The older they are ie no MIM, no lock etc go for more

But what you have listed are commen s&w so unless they are as new in box with everything ie with paper work tools etc I think at most maybe 450-500 each and that is reaching

2 ideas on vaule

1. Dont bother looking at GB unless either it is at completed auction which you can view if your a member or at NR auction and see what they end at ...People can list whatever price they want dont meant it sells for that .....I have had pretty rare and classic s&w on there before no takers even at below blue book ...
2. And yeah find a copy of the blue book that can help

And take very good photos esp of the crane the barrel and the such to show no wear no cracking etc

I learned that the hard way with a cracked framed s&w gun from what I though to be a good and up and up dealer

Make sure they are in time and lock up right
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Oh and keep the 36 you dont want a light weight model ..I have had model 60 and 36 and carried them something classic about them and the weight helps

Me till s&w starts making normal no lock guns ( they only make stub nouse no locks now ) I would hang onto the classic esp them two

Oh and you may get question of the model 19 in terms of if anything nuke loading in it as some very hot 357 loads could wear them down over time
Including assesories like holsters and speedloaders helps keep the prices up. Taking small losses on the holsters, but you end up selling a used gun for full retail or maybe higher.
Note - you won't get much lighter than 36 for the same money. A 637 or 642 is about five ounces lighter than a 36 - 15 ounces v. 21 ounces.

It all comes down to "Dash" and condition. What "dash" is each gun? Look at the frame where the yoke opens and you'll have the model number followed by a dash number (if no dash number, then it's a "no dash.") How's the bluing? Assuming there are no mechanical issues (timing is good, no yoke slop, no push off), the price will vary on the finish.

In my neck of the woods - North Georgia - an excellent condition 36 - very very little bluing loss, looks almost new - will fetch about $500. An excellent condition 19 will fetch about 650 - 700. At most. Some people ask for more and they just sit.

The 19's can vary a lot in price - if you have a Nickel snub that like new with box and dox, well you could ask for more. How much? Depends on how fast you want to sell.

Now you live in Illinois so the prices may differ there.

You may want to try posting pics of your gun on along with beginning of your SN for dating. They are a helpful bunch and may provide some guesstimates for you in your area.
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Think I'll keep the 36.
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Think I'll keep the 36.
Very wise. The 36 was my first "learning" gun and I didn't know enough back then to keep it forever and ever, so wound up trading it for something else that I never liked very much. I shot that 36 really well! Or rather, I learned to hold it really well and kept it steady as I pulled the trigger. It was accurate! It helped build my confidence in my own shooting ability!
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