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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not sure why I did this other than just seeing how much or how little oil will suffice. This will have to be an ongoing test because I only had time to get 100 rounds through the gun before it got dark on me. Speaking of "dark", it was a lot darker than it appeared to be in the video - and it was raining But I had fun.

As a side note, I was trying out some MEN ammo made in Germany. Some that should know spoke very highly of this ammo so I bought some. In this gun, it was awful. I consistently got 4 - 5 inch groups at 100 yards. In contrast, my go to ammo, Australian Outback 69 gr SMK BTHP shot 1 - 2 inch groups. I'll try the MEN in a different AR but it kinda looks like it stinks!

 

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Good topic! We could start a pool to guess the round count beyond which the gun won't run reliably! We're at 100 rounds already and the gun will start it's next session cold.

I'm guessing 500.
 

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I have been in a few exchanges of fire with an opposing force.

So, in reality, a light film on the bolt and carrier will get you thru a 150 rounds, which is the most I have fired at one time before a lull in the shooting. 5 mags. And a few more after that.
My rifle, an A2, showed no signs of slowing down despite a few 3 round burst fire selections.

I have in training, fired 500 or more rounds at a time; sometimes in a short time period, enough to get my barrel smoking with the same lube technique... but the lube drys up pretty quick when rapid fire is done.

You learn your weapon over time, and know when a little squirt on the bolt is needed.

Ive fired many many blanks (which tend to foul and dirty the weapon at an accelerated rate because of the BFA screwed in to the end of the barrel) in Artic conditions of Norway, using no lube whatsoever with minimum issues.
 

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In my experience, DI ARs will run clean & (almost) dry OR nasty dirty & (dripping) wet. The problem (IMHO) is that nasty dirty & dripping wet turns to a Kriptonite charcoal when thing get REALLY hot & then cool down. That's why my (personal) favorite battle long gun is an...FN FAL! :image035:
 

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My first AR was a S&W M&P 15X. The gun shop I picked it up at showed me how to break it down, then sprayed the BCG with CLP and "swung" it at the floor before putting it back together. The owner said to keep it wet.
I bet I had 300 rounds through it before cleaning it for the first time or putting any more lube on it. Including dirty Tula ammo. That was done over a few sessions.
I only cleaned it to clean it, not because it was malfunctioning.
 

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When I built my AR, I degreased the BCG completely and sprayed it inside and out with molybdenum disulfide. That coupled with Mobil-1 full synthetic engine oil, and cleanup has been a breeze and no stoppages, though I usually don't run it more than 100 rounds or so at the range...
 

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I would recommend a bottle of Weapon Shield and would never invest another dollar in a different brand of semi-automatic firearm lubrication ever again.

It really IS that good. :yup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would recommend a bottle of Weapon Shield and would never invest another dollar in a different brand of semi-automatic firearm lubrication ever again.

It really IS that good. :yup:
I'm a WS believer too. I'm trying to use up this bottle of FP-10 and get back to WS.
 

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I've use rem oil for most parts of the BCG, but I do like to grease the carrier's sliding surfaces. Hi-temp grease seems to work very well at staying put and the lubricating longevity is fantastic IMHO.
 

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I use Mobil 1 motorcycle oil 20-50. I put a drop of oil on the front and back of the contact points on the bottom of the BCG, a light coat on the bolt and lube the pivot pin. If it becomes necessary to lube before cleaning, put a couple drops in the holes on the side of the BCG thru the ejection port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just a couple of comments:

1- A lot of posts address lube and lube practice, which is fine, but this is really about how much oil works for how long more than what kind of oil is used. I happened to have a bottle of FP-10 that I need to use up so I used it - lightly.

I'm actually thinking about re-running this test with Weapon Shield as a comparison. I believe the Weapon Shield will perform better, but I would like to confirm that.

2- I've used light grease (Gun Butter) in ARs and after seeing the mess it makes I'll never use it again. Of course I may be shooting my ARs a lot more than most, but as the combustion products build up in the grease, it becomes a thick, abrasive mess.

3- I like rem oil, but in tests, it ranks very low in corrosion protection. If we clean our guns regularly, and I kinda don't, and/or our guns aren't exposed to a lot of "bad weather" then this won't be much of a problem.

3- Many gun oils are designed to do more than just provide a slick medium for parts to ride on and actually treat the surface of metals by essentially embedding lubricants in the surface of the metal. Just about any kind of oil will work for the little most shoot their guns but it remains that there are good, better, and best lubricants. Oils like Weapon Shield protect far beyond mere lubrication. The following link explains how a good gun oil works and properties of the oil that put it in the best category.

http://weaponshield.com/PDF/WeaponShieldReliability.pdf

Here's another interesting read from Gun Butter:
About Gun Butter | Gun Butter
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oil to prevent corrosion, grease on moving parts.
No grease in my AR - it becomes too much of a mess, collects too much contaminants and abrasives. A good gun oil, e.g. Weapon Shield, used lightly will lube better than grease and won't become the abrasive mess. It won't cook off, it interacts with the surface to provide 50 times more surface lubricancy than competitive lubricants. It positively charges surfaces to repel positive charged airborne contaminants. Air borne contaminants do acquire a positive charge.
 

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I use CLP; the way I was taught for the M16A2.
 

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Back in the day, it was wd40 to clean and LSA to lube. My how times have changed. lol
86-93.

For inspections we did buy cleaning agents that were not authorized, such as carb cleaner to get the carbon out.
But the only authorized cleaning was CLP and hot water.

The hot water opened the pores of the metal, or so we were told....

But to this day, I treat my AR's the same, minus the standing in the shower in my skivies holding rifle parts in the scolding hot water, lol.
 
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I use CLP; the way I was taught for the M16A2.
I'm still using CLP, have taken several carbine classes of 500+ rounds daily in the KS summer heat without a problem. I run my bolt pretty wet and mid-day break I'll just add a few more drops.

Chuck
 

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I use Shooters Choice CLP and EWL Slip 2000. Haven't looked back since trying both.

I look forward to hearing the round count when all is said and done.
 

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Disassemble the bolt, treat with EEZOX, reassemble, grease with high temp wheel bearing grease (wipe it almost dry).
Lightly lube with Mobile-!, go for it!
The EEZOX will make cleaning a breeze. The caked burned grease will simply wipe off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Disassemble the bolt, treat with EEZOX, reassemble, grease with high temp wheel bearing grease (wipe it almost dry).
Lightly lube with Mobile-!, go for it!
The EEZOX will make cleaning a breeze. The caked burned grease will simply wipe off.
Wouldn't it be just about as easy to wipe on some Weapon Shield and be done?
 
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